So the waves are very small, so I deiced to go on down to Turtle Bay Resort and take pictures of Tourist. I figured I could make a few bucks or just have fun watching people learning how to surf. Trust me it takes years to gain style and everyone (myself included) looks like a kook when they first start. I had a blast and so was everyone in the water. It’s on the North Shore but there aren’t any local here that want to beat you up. People are just happy to be in the water. I meet Josh Kerr today surfing with his daughter, really sweet girl that wanted to know what I was doing, Josh told her I was talking her photo. He thought I worked for the hotel, I guess all the photographers he knows wouldn’t be caught dead in a place like that hahaha. But I got his information and I told him I’d get him the photos and NO I WILL NOT CHARGE JOSH KERR FOR PHOTOS, HAHA (if you don’t know who Josh Kerr is check out his website http://www.kerr-azy.com/)(I think he’s currently ranked 6th in the world)
And there was a cool turtle that was hanging out in the line up. I didn’t want to bother him to much but I came close enough to snap a photo
I can focus with my fisheye up to about 4 inches away from my camera and I find my self closer then that some times. Once the top surfers trust you in the water the rest try to get used to the comfort of having a camera in their face. I don’t discriminate, if you can rip I will pull the trigger and take the shot. Today on top of getting used to being inches away from a surfer on a wave, I tried to take some shot that other surf photographers uses as illusion shot. By tilting your fisheye lens you can make a surfer look deeper in a wave or a wave look bigger then it really is. Check it out and if you have any questions I’ll be happy to answer.
Got this shot by sticking my arm thru the wave as he raced by, I would say he was about a foot away
If you watched the Van World cup of surfing you will know the name Olamana Eleogram the only perfect ten of the competition, He was really comfortable with me up in his grill
The Next two are trick shots, the first I turned the lens sideways and gave the wave a circular shape (I over did it here) and the second shot is the tilt down making the wave bigger then it really was
I spent all day at Waimea Bay on the 1ST, the Eddie Ceremony wasn’t until 3pm and I had never swam out to the break before on a large day (it was 8-12 feet) so I had to know I could make it out there and back by myself before the Eddie Paddle out. It wasn’t really harder then any other spot I was just being cautious and safe. It did take 15 minutes non stop to get out and 20 to get back thought, so it wasn’t exactly fun, but great exercise.
First few are just some locals getting on the break before it got crowded, Waimea is a known “share wave” meaning that no one has priority and any body can take off at any time. You’ll see what I mean in a second.
I was surprised to see my buddy get a wave all to him self, This guy charges so he can make waves that most don’t take off on I guess.
The rest are from the Eddie, I wanted a picture of the guys Paddling out to the break, here is Mark Healy, Makua Rothman and Danny Fuller
This was just another great angle that didn’t fit in my first post
And this last one is a picture of all the guys taking the strings out of the Flower Leis so they wouldn’t be littering. I really love this picture but without context it’s wouldn’t make sense
I had a great last few days, great picture, good memories and a lot of wonderful people. Not to say everyday here isn’t amazing I was just really in the grove the last few. Woke up early hit up Rocky Point, then Back Door then a quick spin at Off the Wall till my battery died. I told my friend Paula that I’d get here a Jack Johnson picture, but I don’t want to bother the dude walking his kids to school in the morning, plus thats really not my style. So I caught him pumping in to a nice workable right today at Rocky rights, dude has got nice flow. I kind of miss stylish surfing.
And Nat Young Doing What he does best
Today was the final day of the Van World Cup, big up to John John for not only winning but comboing everyone else in the final. Was a day full of barrels and smiles! And for me a lot of swimming, current on the inside literally sucked. Got a lot of good shots and had a good time and honestly I’m glad next time I go out to Sunset I don’t have to sit in the channel any more.
These first two shot were from the Round of 32 Heat 4, Olamana Eleogram and Kieren Perrow
These last two are from the final. I was super close to Michel Bourez so instead of duck diving this wave, I stuck my arm thru the wave and hoped I caught the action, and really hoped I didn’t get sucked over with it…. I didn’t
It was hard to try to document the paddle out without feeling emotional about the importance of the Eddie. It’s more then just a contest, it’s a brotherhood of men and the community they represent. I wanted to show how much respect and honor this day meant to everyone, not just the participant. The North Shore is a small friendly country town, despite the circus that arrives every winter. If you treat it with respect and try to represent “aloha” while you are here, it will embrace you.
These aren’t your typical photo journalistic shots, I wanted to find the Aloha I saw today and share it with you. Mahalo for taking the time to see it
I was just in the middle of the Eddie Aikau Paddle Out Ceremony. I still have goosebumps thinking about it. Words cannot describe the love, emotions, brotherhood feeling within that circle, it was truly magical. They had the ceremony at Waimea Bay on the North shore. The day goes a followed, they come together, get inducted into the competition, say a prayer and then go paddle out to the bay for a blessing and to show respect to Eddie. The public does not paddle out as a sign of respect but they allow a few photographers to document the paddle, I was one of those lucky few. I’m truly honored by this experience, I have so much respect for these men and the waves they ride. The Aikau O’hana and the Hawaiian culture is such a loving respectful part of this surfing community and I want to thank them for all the Aloha they have shown me.
Kelly Slater 11 time world champion and former Eddie Winner
I love the fact that Tom Carroll paddled back out to catch another wave, he was also one of the last people to show up to the ceremony cause he was out surfing Waimea, 50 years old and full of stoke. I have so much respect for this man.
So I must of shot for a total of 6-7 hours yesterday, about 1500 frames. By the end of the day yesterday when I got in from my last session around 6 I was done with editing. I went to Turtle Bay Resort to watch Marky Healy talk about his surfing/free diving/spear fishing/stunt man (he’s done it all) experiences in this Talk series thats going on during the Triple Crown. Really cool stuff, that dude is seriously balls to the wall and an amazing waterman. (sorry no I didn’t bring my camera, if you want that type of stuff check out US weekly, I showcase talent and art)
I like how the surfer changes color from the first frame to the last. I don’t shoot on P, I like full control of my camera. I have to choose weather or not I want the first frames drowned out by the sun and the surfer lit up or first frames clear and the surfer dark in the barrel. can’t have it all
Flynn Novak makes my life so easy, always throws moves in the best part of the wave and always goes big. Thanks Flynn (haha like he reads my blog)
If I want to stay in this industry I have to start learning the sponsored Groms (under 12). Meet
Wanted to feel the new pulse of swell @ Sunset so I swam across Boneyards (bad idea). There is a lot of West in this swell and it was just dragging me over the reef. It’s good practice for tomorrow when the VAN World Cup resumes. I put in a work out and even got caught inside by a large set (the lip came down on my legs a sent shock waves thru my whole body) just go’s to show when you are not ready you can get pounded.
New Yorkers were out in full force today at sunset, so why not get some shots, forgetaboutit
And this guy is my neighbor, I’m not sure if he speaks english, but he smiles when I say hello so maybe I’ll give him this picture. He’s a big dude so maybe I’ll just leave a copy on his door step ahah
Woke up early this morning, looked out my front door to see clear skies and I was on my way to the beach. As the sun creeps over the Koʻolau’s it puts a nice sheen on the surface of the wave, makes it look almost metallic BUT I didn’t get any quality of shot of the pristine surface conditions before the winds changed and the surfers ripped it up. So I got some AIRS, Damien Hobgood was out punting as well as a bunch of local stand outs. I know less talk more pictures
Here is something you never see a board with no LOGO, all most makes you forget you are in Disney world, almost…
And little trade secret I’ll share with my kids out there in web land. The “Snow Effect”, I haven’t perfected it myself YET, but you use your body to stop the lip behind you (helps if you spread your free arm) and the wave hitting your body opens up at least another frame of action and give you that little spray of SNOW, this one is for all of you people that aren’t in 75 degree weather Mahalo
Ok one more cause this made me laugh, kid tried a quick side flip, no chance of landing it cause your momentum is concentrated in the wrong direction, but it’s not going to stop them from trying
I’ve felt a mile away shooting at the VANS World Cup of surfing, big waves, shifting breaks and the fear I would get in someones way during a scoring wave has keep me on the shoulder. If I wanted to use a long range lens I’d shoot from the beach. You know me, I love to be in the action. Went off at Rocky Point today and was getting a little too close for comfort. All in good fun right haha.
Could have cropped this picture and zoomed but I love the clouds, so the picture stand and he floats
For the second half of my session I was focused on getting underwater shots, still need to pratice and maybe go out with friends cause not everyone was happy with me getting so close hahahaha.
haha this guys face says it all, it’s all in good fun, check back later for more pics. Love YA
Carissa Moore is allowed to compete in the Triple Crown Of Surfing (all male event) because she is the 2011 Women’s World Champion of Surfing, there is no Hawaiian event for women and she is Hawaiian. So they made an exception so she could showcase her talent in her home state. That being said unfortunately she did not make her heat today and was eliminated from the VANS World Cup Of Surfing.
Pancho Sullivan was her caddy (some one that holds a spare board for you in the line up) how cool is that
Sunny Garcia was in the same Heat as Carissa and he found the waves he needed to advance to the next round. He is a magician at Sunset, he didn’t even look like he was making an effort to catch waves, they just came to him.
And Dane Reynolds is just a style master, the kid has got flow!
Honestly I was just happy the sun came out today and it seemed like all my pictures from the last few day were all grey. I think tomorrow, regardless of Competition I’m going to go out and shoot some art shots. You know change it up a little, I still got at least 3 days left of competition. I just like being able to get a little closer and interact with the surfers. It’s more fun. I guess thats how some guys feel about contest, Surfing is supposed to be fun, contest feel like work (even though I’m super excited to be in the lineup hehe)
Got up and out early to catch the first 4 heats of todays round of 96 @ THE VANS TRIPLE CROWN OF SURFING. The swell has drop since yesterday so it was no problem swimming in and out to the break. Kind of an over cast morning and that makes for dull photos but it was all good, I was more then happy to catch the action.
Check out how much the wind is throwing the spray. VINCENT DUVIGNAC on a frothy one
I like this one of Heath Joske cause it actually looks like he could make this wave, he kick in a second later, I guess I just like the perception of photos.
Getting ready to go out again in a few minutes for heat 14 Sunny Garcia, Carissa Moore and Heat 15 cause I’ve never actually personally seen Dane Reynolds.
Keanu Asing was ripping out there and I was lucky enough to get front row action. Unfortunately I was too far out side to catch his barrel and the highest scored wave of the event but I got the take off and his second wave score. Good luck tomorrow Keanu…
Check out the video of the wave of the day
So today was the first day of competition for the VANS World Cup, the second stop on the Triple Crown of Surfing, Held at Sunset Beach. The waves were a little choppy due to heavy winds but it was a solid 8-12 foot swell. I was granted access to shoot in the water during the comp, an honor I took with a lot of humility. I take what I do very seriously and am truly grateful for this opportunity. Enjoy the pictures and Mahalo for visiting my blog.
Joan Duru from France getting pitted!!!
Sean Moody advancing on to the next round
When I got this picture of Gony Zubizarreta I realized I was way too close to the competitors, I have to stay in the channel away from the surfers, If I messed up a wave I would not only be ostracized by the surfing community but I probably get kicked out of Hawaii
An it was my honor to watch Sunny Garcia out at Sunset from the line up, a memory I will not soon forget.
If your interested in seeing how big it was today, check out this video. I went swimming in this!
Every time I take the 15 minute swim out to Sunset Beach Break, I always have a great time. It’s about 200 yards from the beach and when the current is strong it is not an easy swim out. Lets not forget to mention BoneYards and why it’s called that. The easiest way to paddle out is over boneyards (nick named this because of the dry exposed reef right next to the break) but it’s not the safest. I guess people just realize the skill it takes to get out there and they totally respect it. Ok lets stop talking about me and just see some pictures hehe.
Empty Barrels into boneyard, no one was brave enough to take them, I really wanted to swim in and get my board but it would be dark by the time I got in
I think I’m in love with the world under the world.
This is Bruno, he was so stoked to be out there, I can’t help but smile when I look at his face. He came over introduced him self and was wondering what i was doing out there, I gave him the website name, I really hope he checks it out and smiles too when he sees his face.
You can see the contest site in the background, I got permission to shoot during the contest so I’m totally stoked, I hope it gets BIGGGGGGG. and I get a front row seat to watch some of the best surfers in the world tear up sunset
Not really my forte but, I seem to get a lot of positive feedback from the last time I tried to get those classic beach break barrel shots. I guess it translate better to mainstream appeal then regular surf photography. I like it but its over edited and plastic to me. It’s funny after trying this a few times I realize all the techniques Clark uses in his own photography. Not to say they are any type of trade secret just very simple editing software touch ups.
Lets face it, Taj was on fire the whole event, it’s been a few days but I though I’d add this little barrel Taj got in the Reef Pro.
Ok so the other day Flynn Novak did a back flip at rocky point, It made Surfline’s Punt of the Month and apparently it was a big deal cause I heard about it at Thanksgiving dinner last night. I got the sequence of him doing it but it was a little over exposed so I didn’t even think about posting it but since it’s “News” on the shore, I might as well show you what I got. Enjoy
Hope everyone is with O’hona or Hanai this year and getting some good food. I got invited to diner and I’m really digging the Aloha today. Here are some clips from yesterdays Reef Pro and some barrels I got this morning at Rocky’s left (almost like backdoor Pipe).
This might be the only sequence I ever get to see Rob Machado in a contest jersey
NOW THE BARRELS, from this morning
And an empty one for you, where were you, did you miss it, o wait your eating turkey, well stop it, there are enough barrels for you too.
HAHA not trying to be the first to tell you that Taj won the Reef Pro, the first stop on the Triple Crown. Not even trying to get the up close and personal podium shot of him drinking a Fosters (Wait a second, never mind no more beer on the podium). I’m here to give you the only water angles (in the world) of Taj winning rides. Just some exclusive content from The Surfing Photog.
Taj’s royal chariot
Taj 9 point ride and back up score. (I love the fact he had the competition combo for 15 minutes of the heat)
His victory ride in and carry up the beach
Went over to the Reef Pro today to watch the second day of competition. There were a few set rolling in but with only 20 minute heat times it was a battle of strategy. Most of the guys that won today got a solid wave off the buzzer followed it up with a small score and then played defense for the last 10 minutes. No shame in the game but it doesn’t lead to the best surfing for the spectators. John John was nailing airs and representing HI to the fullest.
I don’t care to say hello to a single surfer but Paul Fisher is a different story. Thanks for taking two seconds off your phone , Good on ya FOLLOW THE FISH (BEST WEBSITE EVER)
I got home around 3 to stay out for a setting sun session. Trying to get those back lit barrels. Danny Fuller and Roy Powers were holding it down today at Rocky’s and it was a great sunset. Can’t wait for tomorrow’s adventure.
This is what happens if you drop in on the wrong guy
and some failing light shots and back lit barrels
Totally could have sat at Hale’iwa Alii Beach Park and watched the first day of the Reef Pro in 2 foot surf but instead I hit the beach with my camera and some New York Transplants (Got to represent my roots). We hit up Rocky lefts/Gas chamber, the East facing swell is blending the two breaks and really shifting the peaks. Nothing huge but definitely a bunch of head high sets.
I’ve been posting a lot of sequences but today I had the pleasure of following a local Lifeguard and I got a bunch of shots. Enjoy
And some Taylor Knox action just because he’s Taylor Knox