Around the 3rd week in November the North Shore Lit up, It was time for me to step up or get out of the water. All the pro’s started to show up and the waves started to get heavy. If you remember the waiting period for the Haleiwa Reef Pro, 9 days without contestable swell then BANG.
I was so impressed by the talent that it made me hold position longer and try to get closer. It was the push I needed, I was getting drilled by outside sets and slammed into the reef everyday but the fear was gone. I wasn’t going to miss it, I wasn’t going home empty handed.
Adriano De Souza
I would stay out all day everyday, holding position, legs cramping, watching the never ending magic
Today was the finals of the Pipe Masters and the Triple Crown of surfing. I stayed out shooting all day. It was a great ending to an amazing contest season for me and couldn’t be more excited to be a part of it. Kieren Perrow took home the win and John Florence the Triple Crown.
Kieren Perrow in the final
Michel was one heat away from the Triple Crown Title you could hear him in the water, he was really pissed off that he didn’t make it, there is no second place in the triple crown.
Relaxing back stage and just stoked he was wearing a $10,000 watch, haha
So it was kind of a dream come true today, being out at pipeline with only 4 guys in the water. Pipe is a scary place for photographers too, we may be sitting in the channel but rouge sets and inexperienced surfers will kill you. All seriousness, I don’t recommend going in the water at pipe and anybody that respects the place says the same thing. I didn’t stay out long but after you see up-close John John get a perfect 10 it’s not going to get better. (Perfect example the next heat Aamion Goodwin beat Taylor Knox with a combination of two waves for a total of a 2.20)
My favorite wave of the day was John Florence 10 point ride. You can see him here stalling with both hands to get in the perfect position. Awesome
Evan Valiere not only picked the perfect waves but was super deep and under scored in my book
And Ian Walsh Talking off on this monster, look at this thing throwing!!!This is the biggest crowd I’ve seen on the North Shore so far this season, went on like this for about half a mile, impressive they way they handled it, even if there was a crazy line for the bathroom
Today was the final day of the Van World Cup, big up to John John for not only winning but comboing everyone else in the final. Was a day full of barrels and smiles! And for me a lot of swimming, current on the inside literally sucked. Got a lot of good shots and had a good time and honestly I’m glad next time I go out to Sunset I don’t have to sit in the channel any more.
These first two shot were from the Round of 32 Heat 4, Olamana Eleogram and Kieren Perrow
These last two are from the final. I was super close to Michel Bourez so instead of duck diving this wave, I stuck my arm thru the wave and hoped I caught the action, and really hoped I didn’t get sucked over with it…. I didn’t
Carissa Moore is allowed to compete in the Triple Crown Of Surfing (all male event) because she is the 2011 Women’s World Champion of Surfing, there is no Hawaiian event for women and she is Hawaiian. So they made an exception so she could showcase her talent in her home state. That being said unfortunately she did not make her heat today and was eliminated from the VANS World Cup Of Surfing.
Pancho Sullivan was her caddy (some one that holds a spare board for you in the line up) how cool is that
Sunny Garcia was in the same Heat as Carissa and he found the waves he needed to advance to the next round. He is a magician at Sunset, he didn’t even look like he was making an effort to catch waves, they just came to him.
And Dane Reynolds is just a style master, the kid has got flow!
Honestly I was just happy the sun came out today and it seemed like all my pictures from the last few day were all grey. I think tomorrow, regardless of Competition I’m going to go out and shoot some art shots. You know change it up a little, I still got at least 3 days left of competition. I just like being able to get a little closer and interact with the surfers. It’s more fun. I guess thats how some guys feel about contest, Surfing is supposed to be fun, contest feel like work (even though I’m super excited to be in the lineup hehe)
Got up and out early to catch the first 4 heats of todays round of 96 @ THE VANS TRIPLE CROWN OF SURFING. The swell has drop since yesterday so it was no problem swimming in and out to the break. Kind of an over cast morning and that makes for dull photos but it was all good, I was more then happy to catch the action.
Check out how much the wind is throwing the spray. VINCENT DUVIGNAC on a frothy one
I like this one of Heath Joske cause it actually looks like he could make this wave, he kick in a second later, I guess I just like the perception of photos.
Getting ready to go out again in a few minutes for heat 14 Sunny Garcia, Carissa Moore and Heat 15 cause I’ve never actually personally seen Dane Reynolds.
Keanu Asing was ripping out there and I was lucky enough to get front row action. Unfortunately I was too far out side to catch his barrel and the highest scored wave of the event but I got the take off and his second wave score. Good luck tomorrow Keanu…
Check out the video of the wave of the day
So today was the first day of competition for the VANS World Cup, the second stop on the Triple Crown of Surfing, Held at Sunset Beach. The waves were a little choppy due to heavy winds but it was a solid 8-12 foot swell. I was granted access to shoot in the water during the comp, an honor I took with a lot of humility. I take what I do very seriously and am truly grateful for this opportunity. Enjoy the pictures and Mahalo for visiting my blog.
Joan Duru from France getting pitted!!!
Sean Moody advancing on to the next round
When I got this picture of Gony Zubizarreta I realized I was way too close to the competitors, I have to stay in the channel away from the surfers, If I messed up a wave I would not only be ostracized by the surfing community but I probably get kicked out of Hawaii
An it was my honor to watch Sunny Garcia out at Sunset from the line up, a memory I will not soon forget.
If your interested in seeing how big it was today, check out this video. I went swimming in this!
Every time I take the 15 minute swim out to Sunset Beach Break, I always have a great time. It’s about 200 yards from the beach and when the current is strong it is not an easy swim out. Lets not forget to mention BoneYards and why it’s called that. The easiest way to paddle out is over boneyards (nick named this because of the dry exposed reef right next to the break) but it’s not the safest. I guess people just realize the skill it takes to get out there and they totally respect it. Ok lets stop talking about me and just see some pictures hehe.
Empty Barrels into boneyard, no one was brave enough to take them, I really wanted to swim in and get my board but it would be dark by the time I got in
I think I’m in love with the world under the world.
This is Bruno, he was so stoked to be out there, I can’t help but smile when I look at his face. He came over introduced him self and was wondering what i was doing out there, I gave him the website name, I really hope he checks it out and smiles too when he sees his face.
You can see the contest site in the background, I got permission to shoot during the contest so I’m totally stoked, I hope it gets BIGGGGGGG. and I get a front row seat to watch some of the best surfers in the world tear up sunset
Lets face it, Taj was on fire the whole event, it’s been a few days but I though I’d add this little barrel Taj got in the Reef Pro.
Ok so the other day Flynn Novak did a back flip at rocky point, It made Surfline’s Punt of the Month and apparently it was a big deal cause I heard about it at Thanksgiving dinner last night. I got the sequence of him doing it but it was a little over exposed so I didn’t even think about posting it but since it’s “News” on the shore, I might as well show you what I got. Enjoy
Hope everyone is with O’hona or Hanai this year and getting some good food. I got invited to diner and I’m really digging the Aloha today. Here are some clips from yesterdays Reef Pro and some barrels I got this morning at Rocky’s left (almost like backdoor Pipe).
This might be the only sequence I ever get to see Rob Machado in a contest jersey
NOW THE BARRELS, from this morning
And an empty one for you, where were you, did you miss it, o wait your eating turkey, well stop it, there are enough barrels for you too.
HAHA not trying to be the first to tell you that Taj won the Reef Pro, the first stop on the Triple Crown. Not even trying to get the up close and personal podium shot of him drinking a Fosters (Wait a second, never mind no more beer on the podium). I’m here to give you the only water angles (in the world) of Taj winning rides. Just some exclusive content from The Surfing Photog.
Taj’s royal chariot
Taj 9 point ride and back up score. (I love the fact he had the competition combo for 15 minutes of the heat)
His victory ride in and carry up the beach
Went over to the Reef Pro today to watch the second day of competition. There were a few set rolling in but with only 20 minute heat times it was a battle of strategy. Most of the guys that won today got a solid wave off the buzzer followed it up with a small score and then played defense for the last 10 minutes. No shame in the game but it doesn’t lead to the best surfing for the spectators. John John was nailing airs and representing HI to the fullest.
I don’t care to say hello to a single surfer but Paul Fisher is a different story. Thanks for taking two seconds off your phone , Good on ya FOLLOW THE FISH (BEST WEBSITE EVER)
I got home around 3 to stay out for a setting sun session. Trying to get those back lit barrels. Danny Fuller and Roy Powers were holding it down today at Rocky’s and it was a great sunset. Can’t wait for tomorrow’s adventure.
This is what happens if you drop in on the wrong guy
and some failing light shots and back lit barrels
Totally could have sat at Hale’iwa Alii Beach Park and watched the first day of the Reef Pro in 2 foot surf but instead I hit the beach with my camera and some New York Transplants (Got to represent my roots). We hit up Rocky lefts/Gas chamber, the East facing swell is blending the two breaks and really shifting the peaks. Nothing huge but definitely a bunch of head high sets.
I’ve been posting a lot of sequences but today I had the pleasure of following a local Lifeguard and I got a bunch of shots. Enjoy
And some Taylor Knox action just because he’s Taylor Knox
So this morning I ran to Turtle Bay resort from my house at Rocky’s, It’s my morning loop (5 miles each way). But today instead of just filling up my water bottle and looking buff at the pool, I went over to the “Da Hui’s 7th Annual Beach Clean Up” spent two hours helping our ocean by picking up trash. I got there a little late but I managed to fill two garbage bags between Turtle Bay and Kawela Bay. After the clean up they had a ‘Ono BBQ and concert. A lot of Aloha and great people.
Tonight the swell is starting to fill in so I went out to shoot between Sunset and Rocky’s (Monster Mush) and who else but part of the Da Hui crew was out ripping it up. Makua Rothman was shredding and totally owning the break. Got a few great shots and felt the Aloha all over again.
Just want to give a Big ALOHA back to the Da Hui and all the great things they do for the North Shore.
The Triple Crown Of Surfing started yesterday, no waves today but all the tourist were flocking the contest site. (wait a second am I a tourist, never mind that) Any woo no waves today looking like late in the week for day one to start. I’ll be there checking it out have a blast when it does. See ya on the Island….