Archive for November, 2012

Stoked

It’s been an amazing week in Southern Florida. I couldn’t ask for more.

The color and clarity is insane

I met James early in my session at Lake Worth and just thought he was some dude asking about what I was doing in the water, I then realized James has got skills. This guy was all over the place, killing it.

Closeouts are fun it you know how to rock them

The light was blinding around 10:30, most of my photos were getting over exposed but I managed to find some gems

Thank you is all I have to say

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So Many Waves

When there are waves you surf until you are sore, bleeding and on the verge of passing out. Why? Because tomorrow their might not be any more. This was my first session this morning, I’m going back for a sunset session tonight so maybe my next post will be more verbose. Aloha

I was shooting 50-mm and I have to say the prime zone for that lens is 20-35 feet away, when your subject starts flying at you, your options are duck or get hit. I sunk half way and kept my arm above water, unfortunately I kind of cropped the wave.  Still a cool shot and I really happy with the clarity of the lens

I was stoked to see lefts and rights breaking, the right was a hard race down the line but was walling up nicely

Best move of the morning, like to tell you he rode out of it but sadly no. But thats why Photography is great we don’t show the frames of him falling

I have a bunch of these and I post them every once and awhile. This is what I like to call the “O-SHIT-FACE”. People freeze when they see me or think they are going to run me over and stop like a deer in headlights.


Giving Thanks

Aloha to all on your thanksgiving night, wherever you might be. Had a chance to hit the beach at sunrise and score some barrels at Lake Worth Pier in Florida. A lot of good vibes and happy faces today along with a bunch of close outs but everyone left happy. So thank you for your continual support of my surfing blog and I hope I add a little stoke in your life. Aloha

I don’t normally shoot vertical with a fisheye but I was getting pulled backwards and my arm just tilted but the shots came out awesome

This wave was actually the heaviest barrel all day but my camera only grabbed the first frame of the wave. This was a 4 wave set and I took 14 fames per wave but my camera doesn’t reset that quickly so I missed an awesome shot. Didn’t have the heart to tell the guy that I missed the picture, cause he came right up to me after and asked how he could see the shots. These things happen

I was a little inside for this wave and I had to hug the sand bar so I didn’t get fins in my back (about 4 feet deep here)

The take off was gnarly and most waves ended in an air drop because it was so steep

Here is ED showing us how not to do it (notice his feet not on the board)

There were a lot of fun closeouts on the North Side of the pier but there weren’t too many takers willing to throw them selfs off the ledge, here is one that payed off

Here is one that didn’t, No chance of making it but you got to give the guy credit for trying

Thanks


Feeling like a local

So Lake Worth is where my Grandma lives, she is here alone so I come here whenever I can. I go to the Lake Worth Pier because it’s the closest spot, I could drive up and down the coast looking for other waves but I don’t. I’ve met a few awesome locals and they say hi and explain the tides and the currents and generally look out for my bobbing head in the water. For a guy who travels at least 8 months a year feeling like a local is something I miss.

That being said I usually only get to take close outs because I’m a kook and should stick to taking photos haha. But there where some RAD barrels today and even thought I spent most of the day fighting a super strong Rip Current, I managed to squeeze out a few good shots.

Not sure who this guy was or if he made this wave but it’s fantastic to be in warm water with barrels again.

Not only was it warm but super clear, the locals will argue this with me because they think the water is murky but they don’t have a bunch of raw sewage that just leaked in Long Beach, NY that I will be going back to in a week.

At the Pier there was this strong rip current (which was making it barrel so hard) but it wore me out in 40 minutes so I floated down the next break called “Bonsai”. There were some larger waves over their but they weren’t barreling so shooting with a fisheye I was a little out of range. Plus I wasn’t sure where to sit because it was a mushy A-frame.

Devin enjoying the spray off the rights. For some reason I’m always two feet behind this guy, I’ll be here a week, I promise to get a shot of this guy ripping.

So I surfed for 2 hours, shot for another 1.5 while constantly swimming to beat the current, But I haven’t been shooting in over a month so despite the fact I was super tired, It was still barreling and I had to go back out.

This guy was killing it, he was in the right spot every time and charging

On his next wave… He learned when you go hard, you take hard knocks, swam over to me after to ask me if the cut on his head was bad. Just a little gash but he kept charging. If you don’t know already most surfers on good days will stay out with an injury unless its life threatening.

Stoked to be back in the water and I look forward to more waves all this week. If you live in Florida come to the pier but don’t expect to be a local on your first day. Aloha