Waimea Bay and More Eddie shots
I spent all day at Waimea Bay on the 1ST, the Eddie Ceremony wasn’t until 3pm and I had never swam out to the break before on a large day (it was 8-12 feet) so I had to know I could make it out there and back by myself before the Eddie Paddle out. It wasn’t really harder then any other spot I was just being cautious and safe. It did take 15 minutes non stop to get out and 20 to get back thought, so it wasn’t exactly fun, but great exercise.
First few are just some locals getting on the break before it got crowded, Waimea is a known “share wave” meaning that no one has priority and any body can take off at any time. You’ll see what I mean in a second.
I was surprised to see my buddy get a wave all to him self, This guy charges so he can make waves that most don’t take off on I guess.
The rest are from the Eddie, I wanted a picture of the guys Paddling out to the break, here is Mark Healy, Makua Rothman and Danny Fuller
This was just another great angle that didn’t fit in my first post
And this last one is a picture of all the guys taking the strings out of the Flower Leis so they wouldn’t be littering. I really love this picture but without context it’s wouldn’t make sense
Brotherhood, Respect, Unity
It was hard to try to document the paddle out without feeling emotional about the importance of the Eddie. It’s more then just a contest, it’s a brotherhood of men and the community they represent. I wanted to show how much respect and honor this day meant to everyone, not just the participant. The North Shore is a small friendly country town, despite the circus that arrives every winter. If you treat it with respect and try to represent “aloha” while you are here, it will embrace you.
These aren’t your typical photo journalistic shots, I wanted to find the Aloha I saw today and share it with you. Mahalo for taking the time to see it
Eddie Paddle Out Ceremony
I was just in the middle of the Eddie Aikau Paddle Out Ceremony. I still have goosebumps thinking about it. Words cannot describe the love, emotions, brotherhood feeling within that circle, it was truly magical. They had the ceremony at Waimea Bay on the North shore. The day goes a followed, they come together, get inducted into the competition, say a prayer and then go paddle out to the bay for a blessing and to show respect to Eddie. The public does not paddle out as a sign of respect but they allow a few photographers to document the paddle, I was one of those lucky few. I’m truly honored by this experience, I have so much respect for these men and the waves they ride. The Aikau O’hana and the Hawaiian culture is such a loving respectful part of this surfing community and I want to thank them for all the Aloha they have shown me.
There were waves in the bay so all the guys went and had a little surf session 
Kelly Slater 11 time world champion and former Eddie Winner
Tom Carroll
Danny Fuller and John John 
I love the fact that Tom Carroll paddled back out to catch another wave, he was also one of the last people to show up to the ceremony cause he was out surfing Waimea, 50 years old and full of stoke. I have so much respect for this man. 
My 3rd session Yesterday
So I must of shot for a total of 6-7 hours yesterday, about 1500 frames. By the end of the day yesterday when I got in from my last session around 6 I was done with editing. I went to Turtle Bay Resort to watch Marky Healy talk about his surfing/free diving/spear fishing/stunt man (he’s done it all) experiences in this Talk series thats going on during the Triple Crown. Really cool stuff, that dude is seriously balls to the wall and an amazing waterman. (sorry no I didn’t bring my camera, if you want that type of stuff check out US weekly, I showcase talent and art)
I like how the surfer changes color from the first frame to the last. I don’t shoot on P, I like full control of my camera. I have to choose weather or not I want the first frames drowned out by the sun and the surfer lit up or first frames clear and the surfer dark in the barrel. can’t have it all
\
Flynn Novak makes my life so easy, always throws moves in the best part of the wave and always goes big. Thanks Flynn (haha like he reads my blog)
If I want to stay in this industry I have to start learning the sponsored Groms (under 12). Meet
BARRON MAMIYA
He rips
Getting Close again
I’ve felt a mile away shooting at the VANS World Cup of surfing, big waves, shifting breaks and the fear I would get in someones way during a scoring wave has keep me on the shoulder. If I wanted to use a long range lens I’d shoot from the beach. You know me, I love to be in the action. Went off at Rocky Point today and was getting a little too close for comfort. All in good fun right haha. 
Could have cropped this picture and zoomed but I love the clouds, so the picture stand and he floats
For the second half of my session I was focused on getting underwater shots, still need to pratice and maybe go out with friends cause not everyone was happy with me getting so close hahahaha.
haha this guys face says it all, it’s all in good fun, check back later for more pics. Love YA
I LOVE Sunset Beach
Every time I take the 15 minute swim out to Sunset Beach Break, I always have a great time. It’s about 200 yards from the beach and when the current is strong it is not an easy swim out. Lets not forget to mention BoneYards and why it’s called that. The easiest way to paddle out is over boneyards (nick named this because of the dry exposed reef right next to the break) but it’s not the safest. I guess people just realize the skill it takes to get out there and they totally respect it. Ok lets stop talking about me and just see some pictures hehe.
Empty Barrels into boneyard, no one was brave enough to take them, I really wanted to swim in and get my board but it would be dark by the time I got in
Torrey Meister was owning the break, he comes out to Sunset a lot, mostly a long board spot but he knows how to rip it up 
I think I’m in love with the world under the world.
This is Bruno, he was so stoked to be out there, I can’t help but smile when I look at his face. He came over introduced him self and was wondering what i was doing out there, I gave him the website name, I really hope he checks it out and smiles too when he sees his face. 
You can see the contest site in the background, I got permission to shoot during the contest so I’m totally stoked, I hope it gets BIGGGGGGG. and I get a front row seat to watch some of the best surfers in the world tear up sunset 
More Clark Little Shots
Not really my forte but, I seem to get a lot of positive feedback from the last time I tried to get those classic beach break barrel shots. I guess it translate better to mainstream appeal then regular surf photography. I like it but its over edited and plastic to me. It’s funny after trying this a few times I realize all the techniques Clark uses in his own photography. Not to say they are any type of trade secret just very simple editing software touch ups.
Happy Turkey Day
Hope everyone is with O’hona or Hanai this year and getting some good food. I got invited to diner and I’m really digging the Aloha today. Here are some clips from yesterdays Reef Pro and some barrels I got this morning at Rocky’s left (almost like backdoor Pipe).
This might be the only sequence I ever get to see Rob Machado in a contest jersey
NOW THE BARRELS, from this morning
And an empty one for you, where were you, did you miss it, o wait your eating turkey, well stop it, there are enough barrels for you too.
The Angles you didn’t see
HAHA not trying to be the first to tell you that Taj won the Reef Pro, the first stop on the Triple Crown. Not even trying to get the up close and personal podium shot of him drinking a Fosters (Wait a second, never mind no more beer on the podium). I’m here to give you the only water angles (in the world) of Taj winning rides. Just some exclusive content from The Surfing Photog.
The crowd from the water
Taj’s royal chariot
Taj 9 point ride and back up score. (I love the fact he had the competition combo for 15 minutes of the heat)
His victory ride in and carry up the beach
Reef Slow/PRO and afternoon session
Went over to the Reef Pro today to watch the second day of competition. There were a few set rolling in but with only 20 minute heat times it was a battle of strategy. Most of the guys that won today got a solid wave off the buzzer followed it up with a small score and then played defense for the last 10 minutes. No shame in the game but it doesn’t lead to the best surfing for the spectators. John John was nailing airs and representing HI to the fullest.
I don’t care to say hello to a single surfer but Paul Fisher is a different story. Thanks for taking two seconds off your phone , Good on ya FOLLOW THE FISH (BEST WEBSITE EVER)
I got home around 3 to stay out for a setting sun session. Trying to get those back lit barrels. Danny Fuller and Roy Powers were holding it down today at Rocky’s and it was a great sunset. Can’t wait for tomorrow’s adventure.
Roy
Some Locals
This is what happens if you drop in on the wrong guy
and some failing light shots and back lit barrels
goodnight
Some direction
Totally could have sat at Hale’iwa Alii Beach Park and watched the first day of the Reef Pro in 2 foot surf but instead I hit the beach with my camera and some New York Transplants (Got to represent my roots). We hit up Rocky lefts/Gas chamber, the East facing swell is blending the two breaks and really shifting the peaks. Nothing huge but definitely a bunch of head high sets.
I’ve been posting a lot of sequences but today I had the pleasure of following a local Lifeguard and I got a bunch of shots. Enjoy
And some Taylor Knox action just because he’s Taylor Knox
All day Da Hui
So this morning I ran to Turtle Bay resort from my house at Rocky’s, It’s my morning loop (5 miles each way). But today instead of just filling up my water bottle and looking buff at the pool, I went over to the “Da Hui’s 7th Annual Beach Clean Up” spent two hours helping our ocean by picking up trash. I got there a little late but I managed to fill two garbage bags between Turtle Bay and Kawela Bay. After the clean up they had a ‘Ono BBQ and concert. A lot of Aloha and great people.
Tonight the swell is starting to fill in so I went out to shoot between Sunset and Rocky’s (Monster Mush) and who else but part of the Da Hui crew was out ripping it up. Makua Rothman was shredding and totally owning the break. Got a few great shots and felt the Aloha all over again.
Just want to give a Big ALOHA back to the Da Hui and all the great things they do for the North Shore.
Clark Little Type of shots
If you don’t know who Clark Little is click here , Most likely you have seen his work and didn’t even know the artist. He is a North Shore local that has made a name for himself by capturing stunning images of the ocean. He’s known for getting close up shots of shore break at some of the gnarlyist waves in Hawaii and some of the most peaceful moments the ocean has to offer.
If you don’t know the waves have been less then spectacular the last few weeks on the North Shore, so it has lead me to channel my more creative outlets (you can only run and work out for so long). So I hit the beach for a swim and when I got in I thru my self into some shore chop to see how hard it was to capture the moment. Clark Little Style. Out of 600 shots this is the best I got, conclusion not easy 🙂
Meeting my Icons
So I took a swim out to Sunset Beach to practice and stay in loose. It’s been small for the last few days and I thought I could go for a survival swim (with my camera of course) out past the break and across to Rocky Point. I get out there and there are some long boarders riding a bowl section and pulling off some classic nose rides. Mostly older guys but a few visitors from Maui and a few locals. Very relaxed fun session. So Randy Rarick paddles into a pealing right and I go right under his board. He was so perplexed why? He came over and said “you didn’t have to dive deep under me” (basically saying he was never going to run me over). So I told him it’s a small day and I’m practicing underwater shots of surfers, I said I was looking to get a shot of your fin as it cuts thru the water. I guessed this impressed him because he wanted to know both my First and Last name and if I had a website.
Even small days can be epic!!!
Randy Rarick’s biography on surfline.com
All I have to say is STYLE
Stair way to Heaven Hike (Haiku Stairs)
4000 steps up the Koolaus Mountain range on the East Side of Oahu about the Haiku Valley. This hike was closed to the public in 1987 despise being renovated in 2003. To access the trail you have to hop two fences, two thick bamboo forests and arrive before 3 am to avoid the security guard that sits at the entrance to the stairs. BUT IT WAS EPIC!!!! Not a hike for the non-athletic, the climb takes about 2 hours due to the careful foot placement.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ha’ikū_Stairs
AT THE TOP, the old satellite and communication towers
thesurfingphotog.com 