Duck Diving Photo Shoot
So a few days ago I had a photo Shoot with my friend Val Frey. She operates a Billabong Surf Camp here on Maui (www.WavesHawaii.com (best school on the island)). She wanted to get the classic duck diving photos so for an hour all she did was swim under wave after wave. The girl is a super athlete and did it with a smile on her face the whole time.
900 photos, over a 100 keepers, this was the hardest editing I had to do all winter
Merry Christmas
So this is going to be a different type of post, I gave out a bunch of business cards today and told everyone I would post their picture. My gift to everyone…
Email me if you want the sequence
Started off at rocky lefts
This guy was ripping, he was dress partly as Santa, said he couldn’t surf in the jacket. 3rd picture is him getting clipped by the lip. Dude came right back out for more. It’s my pleasure to shoot people who go for broke
Heres Todd…
Here is a bunch of shots from Gas-Chambers, some big sets and heavy drops
A funky session
I don’t think anyone likes to get skunked but it happens. I got a few shots but I’ll let you be the judge if they are quality. No excuses play like a champion 🙂
I like this kid (I think his name is Rico?) he always goes for broke
The low tide @ Rocky Point has been super shallow this week, this guy is over like 2 feet of water
Why old guys don’t do airs
Don’t be hating
I was off today, couldn’t figure out what to do with my self. Got suited up, camera ready, walked down to Pipe…… and sat on the sand watching it for at least 3o minutes. Wasn’t a point to get wet, pipe was a gnarly drop into a Mush Burger. It bothered me that I didn’t want to get in but to get any type of shot I would have got blasted over and over.
I was Hating all day, worked out for two hours then just walked back and forth to the beach over and over again….. Same story. It drives me crazy, cause there was waves but nothing I wanted to shoot or surf.
Around 2pm I lost it, grab my camera and hiking gear and climb the Ko’olau Mountain Range behind sunset. I know, I’ve been told repeatedly not to climb there, It’s either private land or military. But I don’t listen well…
Towards VLand
Towards Sunset/Rocky Point
The whole North Shore
Found these glasses on the street at the beginning of my hike, so I gave my best “better not be hating look”
Good Morning Pipeline
Got up early to get out at pipe before the glorious sun ascended over the Koʻolau Mountain Range which frames the North Shore. I was feeling artistic from the moment I left my house, the air was crisp and I was good spirits. I’m really grateful for my time here and I want to make the best of it. I hope my images warm your heart wherever you may live…
And here is a barrel shot because it is Pipe 🙂
Rocky Point is Home
So I live across Kam Hwy from Rocky Point Surf Break (probably the most photographed beach this season due to the lack of Pipe swells) so there is always talent at my beck and call. I could live here forever but I wouldn’t want to be any where else right now.
It’s impressive to see a 13 year punt an air this high and land it. Names Rico 
If you have ever surfed Rocky Point you have seen this guy, his name is Rasta, nice guy just don’t take off on his wave
We are both starring at the same thing, the lip 
Wanted to show the change of color from the rights to the lefts, both these pictures were taking within 10 minutes
I don’t post blurry pictures too often but I literally get hundreds a day, Water is a hard medium to shoot in and if you haven’t noticed to sticks to everything. This u shape blur actually worked as it blur out the back of the surfer and the sun refection on the wave. Picture was taken at 5:30 right before sunset
O yeah and it’s Holly Beck, you might have heard of her!
WaterProof Long Exposure
So when I first got my water housing I wanted to see how far I could push the limitations. If have you never seen a water housing it has very limited controls (more access, more points that could potentially leak). So a lot of planning needs to takes place before you start trying a long exposure in the ocean. It’s not like you can just stop and readjust, water is bad for cameras. Here is the first attempt ( Click here for first attempt), I went out a little earlier this time to get the sun as it was setting. Turned out OK but I still have a lot of conceptualization before next time.
An underwater sunset, the blue strip down the middle is actually a channel thru the Reef, there is a sand path and since its lighter it picks up the reflection of the water better then the reef (HOW COOL IS THAT!!!)
I tried to Un-Focus here to make the illusion of standing in clouds, the shore waves weren’t that strong so it picked up the refection, otherwise it would have looked like vapor.
Add a light to this one to show the color of the water as a contrast against the red sky (it’s been raining the sky has a reddish purple hue) 
And here is just a picture of the house on Rocky Point, I use it everyday as a reference point while surfing and shooting so I’m always thinking about it. (reference point: positioning point on land so you can line yourself up in the water to be in the best spot for the wave)
New Business card tomorrow!
So I people kept coming up to me in the water and asking my website or tried giving me an email address, or asking my name so they could find me on Facebook. I decided to make this easier for everyone and just get business cards made. Plastic so I can take it in the water and I was thinking about turning the top into a wax comb, the only thing that is going to suck about that idea is that I will be the one cutting all tops. I need an Intern haha. Here is the basic Idea, all the white area will be clear. I thought it would look cooler see thru. I guess we will find out tomorrow.
Here is the Proof the company sent me.
Comfortably Close
I can focus with my fisheye up to about 4 inches away from my camera and I find my self closer then that some times. Once the top surfers trust you in the water the rest try to get used to the comfort of having a camera in their face. I don’t discriminate, if you can rip I will pull the trigger and take the shot. Today on top of getting used to being inches away from a surfer on a wave, I tried to take some shot that other surf photographers uses as illusion shot. By tilting your fisheye lens you can make a surfer look deeper in a wave or a wave look bigger then it really is. Check it out and if you have any questions I’ll be happy to answer.
to get this shot I was literally underneath his board 
Got this shot by sticking my arm thru the wave as he raced by, I would say he was about a foot away
If you watched the Van World cup of surfing you will know the name Olamana Eleogram the only perfect ten of the competition, He was really comfortable with me up in his grill
The Next two are trick shots, the first I turned the lens sideways and gave the wave a circular shape (I over did it here) and the second shot is the tilt down making the wave bigger then it really was
Waimea Bay and More Eddie shots
I spent all day at Waimea Bay on the 1ST, the Eddie Ceremony wasn’t until 3pm and I had never swam out to the break before on a large day (it was 8-12 feet) so I had to know I could make it out there and back by myself before the Eddie Paddle out. It wasn’t really harder then any other spot I was just being cautious and safe. It did take 15 minutes non stop to get out and 20 to get back thought, so it wasn’t exactly fun, but great exercise.
First few are just some locals getting on the break before it got crowded, Waimea is a known “share wave” meaning that no one has priority and any body can take off at any time. You’ll see what I mean in a second.
I was surprised to see my buddy get a wave all to him self, This guy charges so he can make waves that most don’t take off on I guess.
The rest are from the Eddie, I wanted a picture of the guys Paddling out to the break, here is Mark Healy, Makua Rothman and Danny Fuller
This was just another great angle that didn’t fit in my first post
And this last one is a picture of all the guys taking the strings out of the Flower Leis so they wouldn’t be littering. I really love this picture but without context it’s wouldn’t make sense
Brotherhood, Respect, Unity
It was hard to try to document the paddle out without feeling emotional about the importance of the Eddie. It’s more then just a contest, it’s a brotherhood of men and the community they represent. I wanted to show how much respect and honor this day meant to everyone, not just the participant. The North Shore is a small friendly country town, despite the circus that arrives every winter. If you treat it with respect and try to represent “aloha” while you are here, it will embrace you.
These aren’t your typical photo journalistic shots, I wanted to find the Aloha I saw today and share it with you. Mahalo for taking the time to see it
Eddie Paddle Out Ceremony
I was just in the middle of the Eddie Aikau Paddle Out Ceremony. I still have goosebumps thinking about it. Words cannot describe the love, emotions, brotherhood feeling within that circle, it was truly magical. They had the ceremony at Waimea Bay on the North shore. The day goes a followed, they come together, get inducted into the competition, say a prayer and then go paddle out to the bay for a blessing and to show respect to Eddie. The public does not paddle out as a sign of respect but they allow a few photographers to document the paddle, I was one of those lucky few. I’m truly honored by this experience, I have so much respect for these men and the waves they ride. The Aikau O’hana and the Hawaiian culture is such a loving respectful part of this surfing community and I want to thank them for all the Aloha they have shown me.
There were waves in the bay so all the guys went and had a little surf session 
Kelly Slater 11 time world champion and former Eddie Winner
Tom Carroll
Danny Fuller and John John 
I love the fact that Tom Carroll paddled back out to catch another wave, he was also one of the last people to show up to the ceremony cause he was out surfing Waimea, 50 years old and full of stoke. I have so much respect for this man. 
My 3rd session Yesterday
So I must of shot for a total of 6-7 hours yesterday, about 1500 frames. By the end of the day yesterday when I got in from my last session around 6 I was done with editing. I went to Turtle Bay Resort to watch Marky Healy talk about his surfing/free diving/spear fishing/stunt man (he’s done it all) experiences in this Talk series thats going on during the Triple Crown. Really cool stuff, that dude is seriously balls to the wall and an amazing waterman. (sorry no I didn’t bring my camera, if you want that type of stuff check out US weekly, I showcase talent and art)
I like how the surfer changes color from the first frame to the last. I don’t shoot on P, I like full control of my camera. I have to choose weather or not I want the first frames drowned out by the sun and the surfer lit up or first frames clear and the surfer dark in the barrel. can’t have it all
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Flynn Novak makes my life so easy, always throws moves in the best part of the wave and always goes big. Thanks Flynn (haha like he reads my blog)
If I want to stay in this industry I have to start learning the sponsored Groms (under 12). Meet
BARRON MAMIYA
He rips
Went for color got AIR(s)
Woke up early this morning, looked out my front door to see clear skies and I was on my way to the beach. As the sun creeps over the Koʻolau’s it puts a nice sheen on the surface of the wave, makes it look almost metallic BUT I didn’t get any quality of shot of the pristine surface conditions before the winds changed and the surfers ripped it up. So I got some AIRS, Damien Hobgood was out punting as well as a bunch of local stand outs. I know less talk more pictures
AGAIN!
He didn’t make this last one but it was clean enough to post. Here’s Ivan ripping into a nice right 
Here is something you never see a board with no LOGO, all most makes you forget you are in Disney world, almost…
And little trade secret I’ll share with my kids out there in web land. The “Snow Effect”, I haven’t perfected it myself YET, but you use your body to stop the lip behind you (helps if you spread your free arm) and the wave hitting your body opens up at least another frame of action and give you that little spray of SNOW, this one is for all of you people that aren’t in 75 degree weather Mahalo
Ok one more cause this made me laugh, kid tried a quick side flip, no chance of landing it cause your momentum is concentrated in the wrong direction, but it’s not going to stop them from trying
Getting Close again
I’ve felt a mile away shooting at the VANS World Cup of surfing, big waves, shifting breaks and the fear I would get in someones way during a scoring wave has keep me on the shoulder. If I wanted to use a long range lens I’d shoot from the beach. You know me, I love to be in the action. Went off at Rocky Point today and was getting a little too close for comfort. All in good fun right haha. 
Could have cropped this picture and zoomed but I love the clouds, so the picture stand and he floats
For the second half of my session I was focused on getting underwater shots, still need to pratice and maybe go out with friends cause not everyone was happy with me getting so close hahahaha.
haha this guys face says it all, it’s all in good fun, check back later for more pics. Love YA
I LOVE Sunset Beach
Every time I take the 15 minute swim out to Sunset Beach Break, I always have a great time. It’s about 200 yards from the beach and when the current is strong it is not an easy swim out. Lets not forget to mention BoneYards and why it’s called that. The easiest way to paddle out is over boneyards (nick named this because of the dry exposed reef right next to the break) but it’s not the safest. I guess people just realize the skill it takes to get out there and they totally respect it. Ok lets stop talking about me and just see some pictures hehe.
Empty Barrels into boneyard, no one was brave enough to take them, I really wanted to swim in and get my board but it would be dark by the time I got in
Torrey Meister was owning the break, he comes out to Sunset a lot, mostly a long board spot but he knows how to rip it up 
I think I’m in love with the world under the world.
This is Bruno, he was so stoked to be out there, I can’t help but smile when I look at his face. He came over introduced him self and was wondering what i was doing out there, I gave him the website name, I really hope he checks it out and smiles too when he sees his face. 
You can see the contest site in the background, I got permission to shoot during the contest so I’m totally stoked, I hope it gets BIGGGGGGG. and I get a front row seat to watch some of the best surfers in the world tear up sunset 
More Clark Little Shots
Not really my forte but, I seem to get a lot of positive feedback from the last time I tried to get those classic beach break barrel shots. I guess it translate better to mainstream appeal then regular surf photography. I like it but its over edited and plastic to me. It’s funny after trying this a few times I realize all the techniques Clark uses in his own photography. Not to say they are any type of trade secret just very simple editing software touch ups.
Happy Turkey Day
Hope everyone is with O’hona or Hanai this year and getting some good food. I got invited to diner and I’m really digging the Aloha today. Here are some clips from yesterdays Reef Pro and some barrels I got this morning at Rocky’s left (almost like backdoor Pipe).
This might be the only sequence I ever get to see Rob Machado in a contest jersey
NOW THE BARRELS, from this morning
And an empty one for you, where were you, did you miss it, o wait your eating turkey, well stop it, there are enough barrels for you too.
Reef Slow/PRO and afternoon session
Went over to the Reef Pro today to watch the second day of competition. There were a few set rolling in but with only 20 minute heat times it was a battle of strategy. Most of the guys that won today got a solid wave off the buzzer followed it up with a small score and then played defense for the last 10 minutes. No shame in the game but it doesn’t lead to the best surfing for the spectators. John John was nailing airs and representing HI to the fullest.
I don’t care to say hello to a single surfer but Paul Fisher is a different story. Thanks for taking two seconds off your phone , Good on ya FOLLOW THE FISH (BEST WEBSITE EVER)
I got home around 3 to stay out for a setting sun session. Trying to get those back lit barrels. Danny Fuller and Roy Powers were holding it down today at Rocky’s and it was a great sunset. Can’t wait for tomorrow’s adventure.
Roy
Some Locals
This is what happens if you drop in on the wrong guy
and some failing light shots and back lit barrels
goodnight
Some direction
Totally could have sat at Hale’iwa Alii Beach Park and watched the first day of the Reef Pro in 2 foot surf but instead I hit the beach with my camera and some New York Transplants (Got to represent my roots). We hit up Rocky lefts/Gas chamber, the East facing swell is blending the two breaks and really shifting the peaks. Nothing huge but definitely a bunch of head high sets.
I’ve been posting a lot of sequences but today I had the pleasure of following a local Lifeguard and I got a bunch of shots. Enjoy
And some Taylor Knox action just because he’s Taylor Knox
Clark Little Type of shots
If you don’t know who Clark Little is click here , Most likely you have seen his work and didn’t even know the artist. He is a North Shore local that has made a name for himself by capturing stunning images of the ocean. He’s known for getting close up shots of shore break at some of the gnarlyist waves in Hawaii and some of the most peaceful moments the ocean has to offer.
If you don’t know the waves have been less then spectacular the last few weeks on the North Shore, so it has lead me to channel my more creative outlets (you can only run and work out for so long). So I hit the beach for a swim and when I got in I thru my self into some shore chop to see how hard it was to capture the moment. Clark Little Style. Out of 600 shots this is the best I got, conclusion not easy 🙂
Meeting my Icons
So I took a swim out to Sunset Beach to practice and stay in loose. It’s been small for the last few days and I thought I could go for a survival swim (with my camera of course) out past the break and across to Rocky Point. I get out there and there are some long boarders riding a bowl section and pulling off some classic nose rides. Mostly older guys but a few visitors from Maui and a few locals. Very relaxed fun session. So Randy Rarick paddles into a pealing right and I go right under his board. He was so perplexed why? He came over and said “you didn’t have to dive deep under me” (basically saying he was never going to run me over). So I told him it’s a small day and I’m practicing underwater shots of surfers, I said I was looking to get a shot of your fin as it cuts thru the water. I guessed this impressed him because he wanted to know both my First and Last name and if I had a website.
Even small days can be epic!!!
Randy Rarick’s biography on surfline.com
All I have to say is STYLE
Waterproof Long Exposure
A Waterproof Long Exposure !!!!! I’ve been thinking of this concept a lot, low to no light long exposure from inside the ocean. This was a practice run but it turned out awesome. For all you photo dorks out there, not having access to my ISO, WB and focal length while on location (due to limited controls on my water housing) makes this process harder and involves a lot more conceptualization before the shoot but man is it fun. O yeah try to steady a tripod in Hawaiian beach break, FYI not easy.
Got to love “ART” shots
I’ve talked about the balance between Sports Photography and ART. Surfing is an artistic pursuit and not just a “Sport”. It’s the reason why I love it so much. Take for instance “Year Zero”
the 16 mm is awesome, Director Joe G. and Cinematographer Scott Soens make it happen. It’s the reason why I shoot into the sun, the reason why I stay out past dark. In an industry where logo’s as much as surfers sell photos, It’s refreshing that maybe there are some artistic pursuits still out there
thesurfingphotog.com 