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Where I should be

If this was my career I should be at Pipe or OTW today, being seen and making a name for myself. But the waves were better at Rocky Point today hands down. And I love Rocky’s cause it weeds out the weak photog’s, it’s not a sprint like Pipe, it’s a straight up marathon. A current runs across the point and if you’re not a strong swimmer you’ll either be in the impact zone or down the beach in 5 minutes. Not saying I’m superman, I just know how to handle the break. (took a lot of beatings to find out)

Gavin Gillette was on fire today, either that or he was just everywhere I was

Here is what you have to take off on to make the wave, not a day for beginners

My favorite Surfer of all time Mark Occhilupo, I tried to get a picture of him on a back side wave, I must have shadowed him for 20 minutes (in the impact zone) getting pounded but he only took lefts. Still stoked haha

I really enjoy shooting with the guys from Japan, they are very respectful and humble in the water and on land. Plus they SHRED, so I’m compiling a bunch to send over to the Japan Mag’s at the end of the season.

I was shooting from underneath with a fisheye which makes this wave look a lot smaller then it really was, after this ride I was caught inside and instead of trying to get back out thru a football size field of white water, I saved my energy and went it.

Ok and Sterling Spencer cause the dude makes me laugh (the shots kind of grey but so his humor so it’s all good)

Posted by  |  December 7, 2011 | Categories: Barrel, fun, North Shore, Photography, Pro's, Rocky Point, SURF, surfing, Water Angles | Leave a comment

First good Pipe Day

Pipe was on today and everyone was on it. Not crazy crowded, but if you didn’t know what you were doing you had no place being there and the line up got thinned out pretty quickly. Weirdly enough I think there are a lot of people out there surfing that don’t even try to take waves, they just want to say they were surfing pipe on a big day. 40-50 guys out and the 3 hours I was there maybe 20 different guys caught waves.

Kelly Slater got out there and within 10 minutes took this inside bomb right at me, Kind of wish on shots like this I was shooting with my Fisheye

Freddy P showing us what not to do on a wave, he dropped into a huge set wave after this but my shot was blurry so the falling picture is going to have to do.

Empty one and a few unknown rippers

 

Posted by  |  December 7, 2011 | Categories: Backdoor, North Shore, Off the Wall, Photography, Pipeline, Pro's, SURF, surfing, Water Angles | 2 Comments

Turtle Bay Resort

So the waves are very small, so I deiced to go on down to Turtle Bay Resort and take pictures of Tourist. I figured I could make a few bucks or just have fun watching people learning how to surf. Trust me it takes years to gain style and everyone (myself included) looks like a kook when they first start. I had a blast and so was everyone in the water. It’s on the North Shore but there aren’t any local here that want to beat you up. People are just happy to be in the water. I meet Josh Kerr today surfing with his daughter, really sweet girl that wanted to know what I was doing, Josh told her I was talking her photo. He thought I worked for the hotel, I guess all the photographers he knows wouldn’t be caught dead in a place like that hahaha. But I got his information and I told him I’d get him the photos and NO I WILL NOT CHARGE JOSH KERR FOR PHOTOS, HAHA (if you don’t know who Josh Kerr is check out his website http://www.kerr-azy.com/)(I think he’s currently ranked 6th in the world)

Kind of funny to see Josh on a long Board 

And there was a cool turtle that was hanging out in the line up. I didn’t want to bother him to much but I came close enough to snap a photo

Posted by  |  December 6, 2011 | Categories: Business, Exploration, fun, long board, North Shore, Photography, Pro's, SURF, surfing, Turtle Bay, Water Angles | Leave a comment

New Business card tomorrow!

So I people kept coming up to me in the water and asking my website or tried giving me an email address, or asking my name so they could find me on Facebook. I decided to make this easier for everyone and just get business cards made. Plastic so I can take it in the water and I was thinking about turning the top into a wax comb, the only thing that is going to suck about that idea is that I will be the one cutting all tops. I need an Intern haha. Here is the basic Idea, all the white area will be clear. I thought it would look cooler see thru. I guess we will find out tomorrow.

Here is the Proof the company sent me.

 

Posted by  |  December 5, 2011 | Categories: ART, Business | Leave a comment

Comfortably Close

I can focus with my fisheye up to about 4 inches away from my camera and I find my self closer then that some times. Once the top surfers trust you in the water the rest try to get used to the comfort of having a camera in their face. I don’t discriminate, if you can rip I will pull the trigger and take the shot. Today on top of getting used to being inches away from a surfer on a wave, I tried to take some shot that other surf photographers uses as illusion shot. By tilting your fisheye lens you can make a surfer look deeper in a wave or a wave look bigger then it really is. Check it out and if you have any questions I’ll be happy to answer.

to get this shot I was literally underneath his board

Got this shot by sticking my arm thru the wave as he raced by, I would say he was about a foot away

If you watched the Van World cup of surfing you will know the name Olamana Eleogram the only perfect ten of the competition, He was really comfortable with me up in his grill

The Next two are trick shots, the first I turned the lens sideways and gave the wave a circular shape (I over did it here) and the second shot is the tilt down making the wave bigger then it really was

Posted by  |  December 4, 2011 | Categories: ART, fun, North Shore, Photography, Pro's, Rocky Point, SURF, surfing, Uncategorized, VANS World Cup, Water Angles | 3 Comments

Waimea Bay and More Eddie shots

I spent all day at Waimea Bay on the 1ST, the Eddie Ceremony wasn’t until 3pm and I had never swam out to the break before on a large day (it was 8-12 feet) so I had to know I could make it out there and back by myself before  the Eddie Paddle out. It wasn’t really harder then any other spot I was just being cautious and safe. It did take 15 minutes non stop to get out and 20 to get back thought, so it wasn’t exactly fun, but great exercise.

First few are just some locals getting on the break before it got crowded, Waimea is a known “share wave” meaning that no one has priority and any body can take off at any time. You’ll see what I mean in a second.

I was surprised to see my buddy get a wave all to him self, This guy charges so he can make waves that most don’t take off on I guess.

The rest are from the Eddie, I wanted a picture of the guys Paddling out to the break, here is Mark Healy, Makua Rothman and Danny Fuller

This was just another great angle that didn’t fit in my first post

And this last one is a picture of all the guys taking the strings out of the Flower Leis so they wouldn’t be littering. I really love this picture but without context it’s wouldn’t make sense

Posted by  |  December 4, 2011 | Categories: ART, Eddie Aikau, Exploration, North Shore, Photography, Pro's, SURF, surfing, Waimea Bay, Water Angles | 1 Comment

Going to be hard to top

I had a great last few days, great picture, good memories and a lot of wonderful people. Not to say everyday here isn’t amazing I was just really in the grove the last few. Woke up early hit up Rocky Point, then Back Door then a quick spin at Off the Wall till my battery died. I told my friend Paula that I’d get here a Jack Johnson picture, but I don’t want to bother the dude walking his kids to school in the morning, plus thats really not my style. So I caught him pumping in to a nice workable right today at Rocky rights, dude has got nice flow. I kind of miss stylish surfing.

Here is my only good shot at Backdoor and honestly this guys “wave of his life”, he was so jazzed to come out

Not sure who this is but this green wall of water is what I think about when I think Off the Wall 

And Nat Young Doing What he does best

Posted by  |  December 4, 2011 | Categories: Backdoor, North Shore, Off the Wall, Photography, Pro's, Rocky Point, SURF, surfing, Water Angles | 3 Comments

Final Day of the Van World Cup

Today was the final day of the Van World Cup, big up to John John for not only winning but comboing everyone else in the final. Was a day full of barrels and smiles! And for me a lot of swimming, current on the inside literally sucked. Got a lot of good shots and had a good time and honestly I’m glad next time I go out to Sunset I don’t have to sit in the channel any more.

These first two shot were from the Round of 32 Heat 4, Olamana Eleogram and Kieren Perrow

These last two are from the final. I was super close to Michel Bourez so instead of duck diving this wave, I stuck my arm thru the wave and hoped I caught the action, and really hoped I didn’t get sucked over with it…. I didn’t

Posted by  |  December 3, 2011 | Categories: fun, North Shore, Photography, Pro's, Sunset Beach, SURF, surfing, Triple Crown, VANS World Cup, Water Angles | Leave a comment

Brotherhood, Respect, Unity

It was hard to try to document the paddle out without feeling emotional about the importance of the Eddie. It’s more then just a contest, it’s a brotherhood of men and the community they represent. I wanted to show how much respect and honor this day meant to everyone, not just the participant. The North Shore is a small friendly country town, despite the circus that arrives every winter. If you treat it with respect and try to represent “aloha” while you are here, it will embrace you.

These aren’t your typical photo journalistic shots, I wanted to find the Aloha I saw today and share it with you. Mahalo for taking the time to see it

Posted by  |  December 2, 2011 | Categories: ART, Eddie Aikau, Exploration, fun, North Shore, Photography, Pro's, SURF, surfing, Waimea Bay, Water Angles | Leave a comment

Eddie Paddle Out Ceremony

I was just in the middle of the Eddie Aikau Paddle Out Ceremony. I still have goosebumps thinking about it. Words cannot describe the love, emotions, brotherhood feeling within that circle, it was truly magical. They had the ceremony at Waimea Bay on the North shore. The day goes a followed, they come together, get inducted into the competition, say a prayer and then go paddle out to the bay for a blessing and to show respect to Eddie. The public does not paddle out as a sign of respect but they allow a few photographers to document the paddle, I was one of those lucky few. I’m truly honored by this experience, I have so much respect for these men and the waves they ride. The Aikau O’hana and the Hawaiian culture is such a loving respectful part of this surfing community and I want to thank them for all the Aloha they have shown me.

There were waves in the bay so all the guys went and had a little surf session 

Kelly Slater 11 time world champion and former Eddie Winner

Tom Carroll

Danny Fuller and John John 

I love the fact that Tom Carroll paddled back out to catch another wave, he was also one of the last people to show up to the ceremony cause he was out surfing Waimea, 50 years old and full of stoke. I have so much respect for this man. 

Posted by  |  December 2, 2011 | Categories: ART, Eddie Aikau, Exploration, fun, North Shore, Photography, Pro's, SURF, surfing, Waimea Bay, Water Angles | Leave a comment