surfing

Meeting my Icons

So I took a swim out to Sunset Beach to practice and stay in loose. It’s been small for the last few days and I thought I could go for a survival swim (with my camera of course) out past the break and across to Rocky Point. I get out there and there are some long boarders riding a bowl section and pulling off some classic nose rides. Mostly older guys but a few visitors from Maui and a few locals. Very relaxed fun session. So Randy Rarick paddles into a pealing right and I go right under his board. He was so perplexed why? He came over and said “you didn’t have to dive deep under me” (basically saying he was never going to run me over). So I told him it’s a small day and I’m practicing underwater shots of surfers, I said I was looking to get a shot of your fin as it cuts thru the water. I guessed this impressed him because he wanted to know both my First and Last name and if I had a website.

Even small days can be epic!!!

Randy Rarick’s biography on surfline.com

All I have to say is STYLE


Got to love “ART” shots

I’ve talked about the balance between Sports Photography and ART. Surfing is an artistic pursuit and not just a “Sport”. It’s the reason why I love it so much. Take for instance “Year Zero” 

the 16 mm is awesome, Director Joe G. and Cinematographer Scott Soens make it happen. It’s the reason why I shoot into the sun, the reason why I stay out past dark. In an industry where logo’s as much as surfers sell photos, It’s refreshing that maybe there are some artistic pursuits still out there 


THE TRIPLE CROWN OF SURFING

The Triple Crown Of Surfing started yesterday, no waves today but all the tourist were flocking the contest site. (wait a second am I a tourist, never mind that) Any woo no waves today looking like late in the week for day one to start. I’ll be there checking it out have a blast when it does. See ya on the Island….