My 3rd session Yesterday
So I must of shot for a total of 6-7 hours yesterday, about 1500 frames. By the end of the day yesterday when I got in from my last session around 6 I was done with editing. I went to Turtle Bay Resort to watch Marky Healy talk about his surfing/free diving/spear fishing/stunt man (he’s done it all) experiences in this Talk series thats going on during the Triple Crown. Really cool stuff, that dude is seriously balls to the wall and an amazing waterman. (sorry no I didn’t bring my camera, if you want that type of stuff check out US weekly, I showcase talent and art)
I like how the surfer changes color from the first frame to the last. I don’t shoot on P, I like full control of my camera. I have to choose weather or not I want the first frames drowned out by the sun and the surfer lit up or first frames clear and the surfer dark in the barrel. can’t have it all
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Flynn Novak makes my life so easy, always throws moves in the best part of the wave and always goes big. Thanks Flynn (haha like he reads my blog)
If I want to stay in this industry I have to start learning the sponsored Groms (under 12). Meet
BARRON MAMIYA
He rips
Went for color got AIR(s)
Woke up early this morning, looked out my front door to see clear skies and I was on my way to the beach. As the sun creeps over the Koʻolau’s it puts a nice sheen on the surface of the wave, makes it look almost metallic BUT I didn’t get any quality of shot of the pristine surface conditions before the winds changed and the surfers ripped it up. So I got some AIRS, Damien Hobgood was out punting as well as a bunch of local stand outs. I know less talk more pictures
AGAIN!
He didn’t make this last one but it was clean enough to post. Here’s Ivan ripping into a nice right 
Here is something you never see a board with no LOGO, all most makes you forget you are in Disney world, almost…
And little trade secret I’ll share with my kids out there in web land. The “Snow Effect”, I haven’t perfected it myself YET, but you use your body to stop the lip behind you (helps if you spread your free arm) and the wave hitting your body opens up at least another frame of action and give you that little spray of SNOW, this one is for all of you people that aren’t in 75 degree weather Mahalo
Ok one more cause this made me laugh, kid tried a quick side flip, no chance of landing it cause your momentum is concentrated in the wrong direction, but it’s not going to stop them from trying
Carissa Moore, Sunny Garica and Dane Reynolds
Carissa Moore is allowed to compete in the Triple Crown Of Surfing (all male event) because she is the 2011 Women’s World Champion of Surfing, there is no Hawaiian event for women and she is Hawaiian. So they made an exception so she could showcase her talent in her home state. That being said unfortunately she did not make her heat today and was eliminated from the VANS World Cup Of Surfing.
Pancho Sullivan was her caddy (some one that holds a spare board for you in the line up) how cool is that
Sunny Garcia was in the same Heat as Carissa and he found the waves he needed to advance to the next round. He is a magician at Sunset, he didn’t even look like he was making an effort to catch waves, they just came to him.
And Dane Reynolds is just a style master, the kid has got flow!
Honestly I was just happy the sun came out today and it seemed like all my pictures from the last few day were all grey. I think tomorrow, regardless of Competition I’m going to go out and shoot some art shots. You know change it up a little, I still got at least 3 days left of competition. I just like being able to get a little closer and interact with the surfers. It’s more fun. I guess thats how some guys feel about contest, Surfing is supposed to be fun, contest feel like work (even though I’m super excited to be in the lineup hehe)
More Swell More Contest
Got up and out early to catch the first 4 heats of todays round of 96 @ THE VANS TRIPLE CROWN OF SURFING. The swell has drop since yesterday so it was no problem swimming in and out to the break. Kind of an over cast morning and that makes for dull photos but it was all good, I was more then happy to catch the action.
ROMAIN CLOITRE Heat 1 of 96 unfortunately it wasn’t enough to advance ( the 4th photo down was a huge set, you can see the jet ski, getting out of there in the left middle)
Check out how much the wind is throwing the spray. VINCENT DUVIGNAC on a frothy one
Marcus Hickman
I like this one of Heath Joske cause it actually looks like he could make this wave, he kick in a second later, I guess I just like the perception of photos.
Getting ready to go out again in a few minutes for heat 14 Sunny Garcia, Carissa Moore and Heat 15 cause I’ve never actually personally seen Dane Reynolds.
Hawaiian Keanu Asing Wave of the Day
Keanu Asing was ripping out there and I was lucky enough to get front row action. Unfortunately I was too far out side to catch his barrel and the highest scored wave of the event but I got the take off and his second wave score. Good luck tomorrow Keanu…
Check out the video of the wave of the day
VANS World Cup
So today was the first day of competition for the VANS World Cup, the second stop on the Triple Crown of Surfing, Held at Sunset Beach. The waves were a little choppy due to heavy winds but it was a solid 8-12 foot swell. I was granted access to shoot in the water during the comp, an honor I took with a lot of humility. I take what I do very seriously and am truly grateful for this opportunity. Enjoy the pictures and Mahalo for visiting my blog.
The break is a little far from the beach and with 10+ waves it looks miles away 
Joan Duru from France getting pitted!!!
Sean Moody advancing on to the next round
When I got this picture of Gony Zubizarreta I realized I was way too close to the competitors, I have to stay in the channel away from the surfers, If I messed up a wave I would not only be ostracized by the surfing community but I probably get kicked out of Hawaii
An it was my honor to watch Sunny Garcia out at Sunset from the line up, a memory I will not soon forget.
If your interested in seeing how big it was today, check out this video. I went swimming in this!
Taj Barrel
Lets face it, Taj was on fire the whole event, it’s been a few days but I though I’d add this little barrel Taj got in the Reef Pro.
Flynn’s Back Flip
Ok so the other day Flynn Novak did a back flip at rocky point, It made Surfline’s Punt of the Month and apparently it was a big deal cause I heard about it at Thanksgiving dinner last night. I got the sequence of him doing it but it was a little over exposed so I didn’t even think about posting it but since it’s “News” on the shore, I might as well show you what I got. Enjoy
Happy Turkey Day
Hope everyone is with O’hona or Hanai this year and getting some good food. I got invited to diner and I’m really digging the Aloha today. Here are some clips from yesterdays Reef Pro and some barrels I got this morning at Rocky’s left (almost like backdoor Pipe).
This might be the only sequence I ever get to see Rob Machado in a contest jersey
NOW THE BARRELS, from this morning
And an empty one for you, where were you, did you miss it, o wait your eating turkey, well stop it, there are enough barrels for you too.
The Angles you didn’t see
HAHA not trying to be the first to tell you that Taj won the Reef Pro, the first stop on the Triple Crown. Not even trying to get the up close and personal podium shot of him drinking a Fosters (Wait a second, never mind no more beer on the podium). I’m here to give you the only water angles (in the world) of Taj winning rides. Just some exclusive content from The Surfing Photog.
The crowd from the water
Taj’s royal chariot
Taj 9 point ride and back up score. (I love the fact he had the competition combo for 15 minutes of the heat)
His victory ride in and carry up the beach
Reef Slow/PRO and afternoon session
Went over to the Reef Pro today to watch the second day of competition. There were a few set rolling in but with only 20 minute heat times it was a battle of strategy. Most of the guys that won today got a solid wave off the buzzer followed it up with a small score and then played defense for the last 10 minutes. No shame in the game but it doesn’t lead to the best surfing for the spectators. John John was nailing airs and representing HI to the fullest.
I don’t care to say hello to a single surfer but Paul Fisher is a different story. Thanks for taking two seconds off your phone , Good on ya FOLLOW THE FISH (BEST WEBSITE EVER)
I got home around 3 to stay out for a setting sun session. Trying to get those back lit barrels. Danny Fuller and Roy Powers were holding it down today at Rocky’s and it was a great sunset. Can’t wait for tomorrow’s adventure.
Roy
Some Locals
This is what happens if you drop in on the wrong guy
and some failing light shots and back lit barrels
goodnight
Finally Some Swell
When there are waves the Pro’s come out to play, Jadson Andre getting some air 
and Barreled
All day Da Hui
So this morning I ran to Turtle Bay resort from my house at Rocky’s, It’s my morning loop (5 miles each way). But today instead of just filling up my water bottle and looking buff at the pool, I went over to the “Da Hui’s 7th Annual Beach Clean Up” spent two hours helping our ocean by picking up trash. I got there a little late but I managed to fill two garbage bags between Turtle Bay and Kawela Bay. After the clean up they had a ‘Ono BBQ and concert. A lot of Aloha and great people.
Tonight the swell is starting to fill in so I went out to shoot between Sunset and Rocky’s (Monster Mush) and who else but part of the Da Hui crew was out ripping it up. Makua Rothman was shredding and totally owning the break. Got a few great shots and felt the Aloha all over again.
Just want to give a Big ALOHA back to the Da Hui and all the great things they do for the North Shore.
Meeting my Icons
So I took a swim out to Sunset Beach to practice and stay in loose. It’s been small for the last few days and I thought I could go for a survival swim (with my camera of course) out past the break and across to Rocky Point. I get out there and there are some long boarders riding a bowl section and pulling off some classic nose rides. Mostly older guys but a few visitors from Maui and a few locals. Very relaxed fun session. So Randy Rarick paddles into a pealing right and I go right under his board. He was so perplexed why? He came over and said “you didn’t have to dive deep under me” (basically saying he was never going to run me over). So I told him it’s a small day and I’m practicing underwater shots of surfers, I said I was looking to get a shot of your fin as it cuts thru the water. I guessed this impressed him because he wanted to know both my First and Last name and if I had a website.
Even small days can be epic!!!
Randy Rarick’s biography on surfline.com
All I have to say is STYLE
thesurfingphotog.com 