Taj Barrel
Lets face it, Taj was on fire the whole event, it’s been a few days but I though I’d add this little barrel Taj got in the Reef Pro.
Flynn’s Back Flip
Ok so the other day Flynn Novak did a back flip at rocky point, It made Surfline’s Punt of the Month and apparently it was a big deal cause I heard about it at Thanksgiving dinner last night. I got the sequence of him doing it but it was a little over exposed so I didn’t even think about posting it but since it’s “News” on the shore, I might as well show you what I got. Enjoy
Happy Turkey Day
Hope everyone is with O’hona or Hanai this year and getting some good food. I got invited to diner and I’m really digging the Aloha today. Here are some clips from yesterdays Reef Pro and some barrels I got this morning at Rocky’s left (almost like backdoor Pipe).
This might be the only sequence I ever get to see Rob Machado in a contest jersey
NOW THE BARRELS, from this morning
And an empty one for you, where were you, did you miss it, o wait your eating turkey, well stop it, there are enough barrels for you too.
The Angles you didn’t see
HAHA not trying to be the first to tell you that Taj won the Reef Pro, the first stop on the Triple Crown. Not even trying to get the up close and personal podium shot of him drinking a Fosters (Wait a second, never mind no more beer on the podium). I’m here to give you the only water angles (in the world) of Taj winning rides. Just some exclusive content from The Surfing Photog.
The crowd from the water
Taj’s royal chariot
Taj 9 point ride and back up score. (I love the fact he had the competition combo for 15 minutes of the heat)
His victory ride in and carry up the beach
Reef Slow/PRO and afternoon session
Went over to the Reef Pro today to watch the second day of competition. There were a few set rolling in but with only 20 minute heat times it was a battle of strategy. Most of the guys that won today got a solid wave off the buzzer followed it up with a small score and then played defense for the last 10 minutes. No shame in the game but it doesn’t lead to the best surfing for the spectators. John John was nailing airs and representing HI to the fullest.
I don’t care to say hello to a single surfer but Paul Fisher is a different story. Thanks for taking two seconds off your phone , Good on ya FOLLOW THE FISH (BEST WEBSITE EVER)
I got home around 3 to stay out for a setting sun session. Trying to get those back lit barrels. Danny Fuller and Roy Powers were holding it down today at Rocky’s and it was a great sunset. Can’t wait for tomorrow’s adventure.
Roy
Some Locals
This is what happens if you drop in on the wrong guy
and some failing light shots and back lit barrels
goodnight
Some direction
Totally could have sat at Hale’iwa Alii Beach Park and watched the first day of the Reef Pro in 2 foot surf but instead I hit the beach with my camera and some New York Transplants (Got to represent my roots). We hit up Rocky lefts/Gas chamber, the East facing swell is blending the two breaks and really shifting the peaks. Nothing huge but definitely a bunch of head high sets.
I’ve been posting a lot of sequences but today I had the pleasure of following a local Lifeguard and I got a bunch of shots. Enjoy
And some Taylor Knox action just because he’s Taylor Knox
Finally Some Swell
When there are waves the Pro’s come out to play, Jadson Andre getting some air 
and Barreled
All day Da Hui
So this morning I ran to Turtle Bay resort from my house at Rocky’s, It’s my morning loop (5 miles each way). But today instead of just filling up my water bottle and looking buff at the pool, I went over to the “Da Hui’s 7th Annual Beach Clean Up” spent two hours helping our ocean by picking up trash. I got there a little late but I managed to fill two garbage bags between Turtle Bay and Kawela Bay. After the clean up they had a ‘Ono BBQ and concert. A lot of Aloha and great people.
Tonight the swell is starting to fill in so I went out to shoot between Sunset and Rocky’s (Monster Mush) and who else but part of the Da Hui crew was out ripping it up. Makua Rothman was shredding and totally owning the break. Got a few great shots and felt the Aloha all over again.
Just want to give a Big ALOHA back to the Da Hui and all the great things they do for the North Shore.
Clark Little Type of shots
If you don’t know who Clark Little is click here , Most likely you have seen his work and didn’t even know the artist. He is a North Shore local that has made a name for himself by capturing stunning images of the ocean. He’s known for getting close up shots of shore break at some of the gnarlyist waves in Hawaii and some of the most peaceful moments the ocean has to offer.
If you don’t know the waves have been less then spectacular the last few weeks on the North Shore, so it has lead me to channel my more creative outlets (you can only run and work out for so long). So I hit the beach for a swim and when I got in I thru my self into some shore chop to see how hard it was to capture the moment. Clark Little Style. Out of 600 shots this is the best I got, conclusion not easy 🙂
Meeting my Icons
So I took a swim out to Sunset Beach to practice and stay in loose. It’s been small for the last few days and I thought I could go for a survival swim (with my camera of course) out past the break and across to Rocky Point. I get out there and there are some long boarders riding a bowl section and pulling off some classic nose rides. Mostly older guys but a few visitors from Maui and a few locals. Very relaxed fun session. So Randy Rarick paddles into a pealing right and I go right under his board. He was so perplexed why? He came over and said “you didn’t have to dive deep under me” (basically saying he was never going to run me over). So I told him it’s a small day and I’m practicing underwater shots of surfers, I said I was looking to get a shot of your fin as it cuts thru the water. I guessed this impressed him because he wanted to know both my First and Last name and if I had a website.
Even small days can be epic!!!
Randy Rarick’s biography on surfline.com
All I have to say is STYLE
Waterproof Long Exposure
A Waterproof Long Exposure !!!!! I’ve been thinking of this concept a lot, low to no light long exposure from inside the ocean. This was a practice run but it turned out awesome. For all you photo dorks out there, not having access to my ISO, WB and focal length while on location (due to limited controls on my water housing) makes this process harder and involves a lot more conceptualization before the shoot but man is it fun. O yeah try to steady a tripod in Hawaiian beach break, FYI not easy.
Got to love “ART” shots
I’ve talked about the balance between Sports Photography and ART. Surfing is an artistic pursuit and not just a “Sport”. It’s the reason why I love it so much. Take for instance “Year Zero”
the 16 mm is awesome, Director Joe G. and Cinematographer Scott Soens make it happen. It’s the reason why I shoot into the sun, the reason why I stay out past dark. In an industry where logo’s as much as surfers sell photos, It’s refreshing that maybe there are some artistic pursuits still out there
Stair way to Heaven Hike (Haiku Stairs)
4000 steps up the Koolaus Mountain range on the East Side of Oahu about the Haiku Valley. This hike was closed to the public in 1987 despise being renovated in 2003. To access the trail you have to hop two fences, two thick bamboo forests and arrive before 3 am to avoid the security guard that sits at the entrance to the stairs. BUT IT WAS EPIC!!!! Not a hike for the non-athletic, the climb takes about 2 hours due to the careful foot placement.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ha’ikū_Stairs
AT THE TOP, the old satellite and communication towers
Night Spray
When the pro’s stay out after dark, there is no reason to go in because they do every thing above the lip.
Longboard kind of day
As the swell decreases and as the end of glorious 3 day weekend (haha people that actually have real jobs) it was a longboard kind of day. Get out the big stick, da boat, the loooong plank… Lets pack the minivan go to the North Shore and lather on the sunscreen. But seriously there where some rippers and even some good nose ridding, a skill that seems to be lost on the youth. So next time it’s mushy and onshore, dust off your old woody and ride with some style.
THE TRIPLE CROWN OF SURFING
The Triple Crown Of Surfing started yesterday, no waves today but all the tourist were flocking the contest site. (wait a second am I a tourist, never mind that) Any woo no waves today looking like late in the week for day one to start. I’ll be there checking it out have a blast when it does. See ya on the Island….
PAY FOR YOUR PHOTOS
So guys come up to me in the water asking if I got the shot, until my business cards get here, I have to remember there email, phone #, facebook name….. but I don’t give photos for free, if you don’t pay this is what you get… Better the shot the more money. this is first level 
Sponsored Kids
So what were you doing when you were 11. I can bet 99.9% of the world could say not charging in Hawaii. Thats why these NORTH SHORE kids are groomed for the world tour of surfing. Thats why 80% of the top surfing professionals come from world class breaks. Yeah you can have the argument that when these kids get to small beach break (50% of the World Qualifying events) that they can’t perform because they don’t know how to excel in crappy waves. You can make that argument but these kids are still world class athletes before there 16th birthday.
Making a home in the barrel
Taking this journey into the cover of water, shacked, tubed, pitted. You know what I’m talking about chandelier effect!
Surf Break: Gas-chambers sequence
Sequence: a series of pictures, Not the shine things
A fisheye morning (for the kids)
Crazy rainy today so what better lens to use then the trusted augmented fisheye, the kids love it and taste great on toast. Boo YAA
FIRST DAY WITH WATER HOUSING
Ok so I planed to have my water housing about a month ago, things happened shipping got delayed. I was stressed the whole time but NOW I HAVE IT AND I’M TOTALLY STOKED. It’s not super easy but I’m not going out and training on easy waves. Fuck it, if I can’t hang with the big boy, I have no right being on the North Shore in the first place. Here is a sample, I will up load the best ones of the day, everyday. LOVE IT 
Pipeline Respect
Pipeline has claimed the life’s of more surfers then another break in the world. These surfers that are immortalized on the plaque behind pipeline were professional surfers. Makes you think. If it doesn’t make you respect this wave then you are too foolish to ride it.
Hawaiian Motto: Ua Mau ke Ea o ka ʻĀina i ka Pono
Translates to : “The life of the land is perpetuated in righteousness”
That WILL happen
This is the where the whole surfing world comes for a reason. Prices will be paid
thesurfingphotog.com 