When there are waves you surf until you are sore, bleeding and on the verge of passing out. Why? Because tomorrow their might not be any more. This was my first session this morning, I’m going back for a sunset session tonight so maybe my next post will be more verbose. Aloha
I was shooting 50-mm and I have to say the prime zone for that lens is 20-35 feet away, when your subject starts flying at you, your options are duck or get hit. I sunk half way and kept my arm above water, unfortunately I kind of cropped the wave. Still a cool shot and I really happy with the clarity of the lens
I was stoked to see lefts and rights breaking, the right was a hard race down the line but was walling up nicely
Best move of the morning, like to tell you he rode out of it but sadly no. But thats why Photography is great we don’t show the frames of him falling
I have a bunch of these and I post them every once and awhile. This is what I like to call the “O-SHIT-FACE”. People freeze when they see me or think they are going to run me over and stop like a deer in headlights.