the BIG apple

NY surf comes alive during the fall, the beach empties out, we dust of our wetsuits and we charge. Waves here are few and far between and on a good swell you can tell that half the guys in the water have called in sick. That type of hunger represents NY SURF, paddling until your shoulders are burning and saying 1 more wave, 30 times. I surfed until my arms were tired then shot till my legs were burning then did it again.

I love surfing… maybe too much?

People where getting annoyed this guy was catching too many waves (those people sucked at surfing), this guy was killing it all day. So much style and form… take as many waves as you want, I got your back

The wave would jack up right above the jetty, I couldn’t understand why everyone wasn’t lined up there? Me and this guy shared the peak the whole time I was surfing there. (rock jetty you can notice in the bottom corner)

This dude told me he was 40 years old! I really wish I can still hack like this at 40.

There were some barrels to be found but you had to ride them into the jetty. Mostly close outs but in NY we are not afraid to go for it.

The amount of people started to shrink as the day got closer too noon, maybe people took a half day or just maybe they got tired from surfing amazing lefts all morning.

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10 responses

  1. Aww, man! I really wanna try surf NYC!

    October 26, 2012 at 2:32 am

  2. This is my favourite blog. Thanks.

    October 28, 2012 at 7:56 pm

    • Thanks bro, I try to keep it simple and show the local scene. I’ll keep posting if You keep reading

      October 28, 2012 at 8:00 pm

  3. mike martin

    stoked! From a central california surfer who is now an Oregon surfer, 44 years young and ripping as hard as I ever have; just don’t surf as much these days. Trying to stay in shape with swimming or mt biking; being that I live 180 miles from the coast. I gotta be (reasonably) sure before I go is all! Keep em coming! anything interesting from Sandy??

    October 30, 2012 at 10:41 pm

    • Sandy was a bust for NY and Northern Jersey, we got all of the storm and no clean waves. Too much wind, trust me I searched. I had to lie to the cops and tell them I lived in Long Beach just so I could get close enough to check (they shut down all the bridges to the beach)

      October 31, 2012 at 5:36 am

      • mike martin

        Thanks for all that gnarly work you did swimming out in HI! Good for the soul of landlocked surfers. Last winter’s NS work was really fresh and unique, not like Surfmags, and I gotta say I dug it. Love to take you out to one of my favorite spots in Oregon. It is a left/right reef with similar exposure to Lincoln City, so it pumps. Super exposed to wind though; I think it is uncrowded because when it goes off so does all of Oregon. Me and a buddy are the only ones we know that have surfed it, at least from what we have observed; best thing is it is only couple mile from a much used spot; fickle but bigger/better than the flock spot.
        Hit me up if your work ever takes you to OR if you want…

        November 3, 2012 at 11:20 am

      • I’ve surfed Lincoln City before ( in July of 2011) it was a heavy wave. Almost slabby, super cold. I tried surfing in a 3/2 no booties on a overcast day. I have so much respect for you guys. Thanks for reading thru my blog and ill be sure to hit you up when I go there again. Aloha Daniel

        November 3, 2012 at 12:53 pm

  4. mike martin

    During that time I was working in Depoe Bay staying at Otter Rock; I am there every summer. Then in the winter I live in Bend; when it is time to go to the beach I know a “swell spot”, a “storm spot”(likes S winds); and a spot with LC like exposure that only becomes desireable after the swell drops below 6 foot. The paddle is the battle!

    November 4, 2012 at 7:34 pm

    • Dude you are so getting an email when I come out! I promise to step it up as much (if not more ha) as you do. Aloha, this totally made my day…

      November 4, 2012 at 8:35 pm

  5. mike martin

    I would love to extend hospitality your way. Even if you find yourself in Bend where I live with my wife and kids. We have a trailer that we keep at the beach for easy accomodation for executing surgical surf strikes.
    For the first few years in Oregon; I went back where I came from (to Santa Barbara or Santa Cruz) for surfing during holiday breaks.
    Then I suffered a whiplash injury(2002).
    Two neck and one rotator cuff surgeries later I found myself out of the water going on 5 years. Knowing I would not be able to paddle with power again, possibly never again, I bought myself a kneeboard from Ron Romonosky. Then I bought a 5 mil and was good to go. Now I do all my surfs in Oregon over the last 5 years.

    Being on a kneeboard I learned that I have always sucked at surfing (im the guy who always bent at the waist, not the knees, and always blew the barrell). So injury is the main reason I stumbled upon a niche in the surf world that I really enjoy. But it has made me a way better wave rider. I am getting to where I could surf without swim fins now; but being so much lower to the water I have found that I don’t want a “regular” surfboard ever again.
    Cheers…

    November 5, 2012 at 10:36 pm

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