Wanted to feel the new pulse of swell @ Sunset so I swam across Boneyards (bad idea). There is a lot of West in this swell and it was just dragging me over the reef. It’s good practice for tomorrow when the VAN World Cup resumes. I put in a work out and even got caught inside by a large set (the lip came down on my legs a sent shock waves thru my whole body) just go’s to show when you are not ready you can get pounded.
New Yorkers were out in full force today at sunset, so why not get some shots, forgetaboutit
And this guy is my neighbor, I’m not sure if he speaks english, but he smiles when I say hello so maybe I’ll give him this picture. He’s a big dude so maybe I’ll just leave a copy on his door step ahah