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Giving Thanks

Aloha to all on your thanksgiving night, wherever you might be. Had a chance to hit the beach at sunrise and score some barrels at Lake Worth Pier in Florida. A lot of good vibes and happy faces today along with a bunch of close outs but everyone left happy. So thank you for your continual support of my surfing blog and I hope I add a little stoke in your life. Aloha

I don’t normally shoot vertical with a fisheye but I was getting pulled backwards and my arm just tilted but the shots came out awesome

This wave was actually the heaviest barrel all day but my camera only grabbed the first frame of the wave. This was a 4 wave set and I took 14 fames per wave but my camera doesn’t reset that quickly so I missed an awesome shot. Didn’t have the heart to tell the guy that I missed the picture, cause he came right up to me after and asked how he could see the shots. These things happen

I was a little inside for this wave and I had to hug the sand bar so I didn’t get fins in my back (about 4 feet deep here)

The take off was gnarly and most waves ended in an air drop because it was so steep

Here is ED showing us how not to do it (notice his feet not on the board)

There were a lot of fun closeouts on the North Side of the pier but there weren’t too many takers willing to throw them selfs off the ledge, here is one that payed off

Here is one that didn’t, No chance of making it but you got to give the guy credit for trying

Thanks


New Island Maui

So I moved to Maui at the end of December thats why my post have been slow lately, I love the feedback and the comments I have been getting and it’s weird but I feel an obligation to keep posting. So there are two back to back swells coming the first week of the new year and I promise I will start blowing up thesurfingphotog.com again.

Mahalo for visiting. My new place is down the street from Ho’okipa so I’ll start showcasing the local rippers soon


Comfortably Close

I can focus with my fisheye up to about 4 inches away from my camera and I find my self closer then that some times. Once the top surfers trust you in the water the rest try to get used to the comfort of having a camera in their face. I don’t discriminate, if you can rip I will pull the trigger and take the shot. Today on top of getting used to being inches away from a surfer on a wave, I tried to take some shot that other surf photographers uses as illusion shot. By tilting your fisheye lens you can make a surfer look deeper in a wave or a wave look bigger then it really is. Check it out and if you have any questions I’ll be happy to answer.

to get this shot I was literally underneath his board

Got this shot by sticking my arm thru the wave as he raced by, I would say he was about a foot away

If you watched the Van World cup of surfing you will know the name Olamana Eleogram the only perfect ten of the competition, He was really comfortable with me up in his grill

The Next two are trick shots, the first I turned the lens sideways and gave the wave a circular shape (I over did it here) and the second shot is the tilt down making the wave bigger then it really was


Slow afternoon at Sunset

Wanted to feel the new pulse of swell @ Sunset so I swam across Boneyards (bad idea). There is a lot of West in this swell and it was just dragging me over the reef. It’s good practice for tomorrow when the VAN World Cup resumes. I put in a work out and even got caught inside by a  large set (the lip came down on my legs a sent shock waves thru my whole body) just go’s to show when you are not ready you can get pounded.

New Yorkers were out in full force today at sunset, so why not get some shots, forgetaboutit

This guy, not from New York but he looks angry enough

And this guy is my neighbor, I’m not sure if he speaks english, but he smiles when I say hello so maybe I’ll give him this picture. He’s a big dude so maybe I’ll just leave a copy on his door step ahah


VANS World Cup

So today was the first day of competition for the VANS World Cup, the second stop on the Triple Crown of Surfing, Held at Sunset Beach. The waves were a little choppy due to heavy winds but it was a solid 8-12 foot swell. I was granted access to shoot in the water during the comp, an honor I took with a lot of humility. I take what I do very seriously and am truly grateful for this opportunity. Enjoy the pictures and Mahalo for visiting my blog.

The break is a little far from the beach and with 10+ waves it looks miles away 

Joan Duru from France getting pitted!!!

Sean Moody advancing on to the next round

When I got this picture of Gony Zubizarreta I realized I was way too close to the competitors, I have to stay in the channel away from the surfers, If I messed up a wave I would not only be ostracized by the surfing community but I probably get kicked out of Hawaii

An it was my honor to watch Sunny Garcia out at Sunset from the line up, a memory I will not soon forget.

If your interested in seeing how big it was today, check out this video. I went swimming in this!

Round 128- heat 13 Rothman, Garcia, Thornton, Zubizarreta


Taj Barrel

Lets face it, Taj was on fire the whole event, it’s been a few days but I though I’d add this little barrel Taj got in the Reef Pro.


Flynn’s Back Flip

Ok so the other day Flynn Novak did a back flip at rocky point, It made Surfline’s Punt of the Month and apparently it was a big deal cause I heard about it at Thanksgiving dinner last night. I got the sequence of him doing it but it was a little over exposed so I didn’t even think about posting it but since it’s “News” on the shore, I might as well show you what I got. Enjoy