SURF

Trusting Ablitity

Having the ability isn’t enough, it’s knowing when something goes wrong you have the skills to protect yourself. I know that shooting fisheye in the pit at Honolua Bay is the right lens but doing so leaves you exposed if an outside set comes rolling thru.  I got a bunch of fantastic shots yesterday but what I’m most proud of was when I got caught inside and wave after wave (maybe 6?) keep sending me deeper into this torrid mass of white water, that I was able to rise above. Having only a few seconds to gasp for air before the next wave hits you is a strange feeling but freaking-out is what gets your hurt. It’s a helpless feeling knowing that you are not strong enough to get yourself out of this situation, you need to stop fighting and let the current push you out of the impact zone.

What a rush…Mahalo for visiting my site

Honolua-Bay-1-17-14-wp-17

Honolua-Bay-1-17-14-wp-6 Honolua-Bay-1-17-14-wp-8 Honolua-Bay-1-17-14-wp-9 Honolua-Bay-1-17-14-wp-10  Honolua-Bay-1-17-14-wp-13 Honolua-Bay-1-17-14-wp-2 Honolua-Bay-1-17-14-wp-19 Honolua-Bay-1-17-14-wp-20 Honolua-Bay-1-17-14-wp-16 Honolua-Bay-1-17-14-wp-1

I have a bunch more photos, if you don’t see your wave please email me


The Lefts at “RIGHTS”

If you have never been to the North Shore of Maui you might be a little confused about where to tell your friends you are going surfing. Where I come from in NY a beach and the wave are usually called the same thing for miles of coast line. At Ho’okipa Beach Park a quarter mile of sand and reef have a minimum of three names ( people would argue there are many more little breaks within this stretch ) Pavilions (pavils), Middles and Rights. I surf goofy-foot-ed ( right foot forward ) and I have a special love for going left at the “Rights” ( which is at the left end or westend of the beach park ( confusing…).

I have been told this section of wave is a waste of time because

{A} It is a heavy drop into shallow reef

{B} a solid wave sends you into a sea of white water from Middles, which is a pain in the ass to paddle back thru, 10-15 min paddle battle

{C} it will never be a long ride and most of the time you are racing to make the section.

That being said, I STILL LOVE THIS WAVE. It’s peaky, fast and no-body likes it, which means I don’t have to fight anyone for this wave. I watched on the beach for 30 minutes for the right lighting and could see this guy killing the Lefts at Rights the whole time. I grab my camera and basically was this guys personally photographer for 90 minutes. So besides a few rights at Rights that rolled my way shallow this is a blog post about TOSH PEILA @TOSH_PELIA

Hookipa-1-5-14-5 Hookipa-1-5-14-6 Hookipa-1-5-14-7 Hookipa-1-5-14-8 Hookipa-1-5-14-9 Hookipa-1-5-14-10 Hookipa-1-5-14-11

I was soooo bummed this shot came out blurry, with a flash you have the tendency to focus on the spray of water because the illuminated water is the closest focal point.

Hookipa-1-5-14-16

If you were wondering if Tosh was a good person? here he is ducking his head down and paddling so he didn’t block my shot. That’s why Tosh gets all his shots for free any day of the week.

Hookipa-1-5-14-17

All night long

Hookipa-1-5-14-26 Hookipa-1-5-14-14 Hookipa-1-5-14-1 Hookipa-1-5-14-2 Hookipa-1-5-14-3

Here are just a bunch of shots I really liked the lighting on…

Hookipa-1-5-14-28

Hookipa-1-5-14-22 Hookipa-1-5-14-21 Hookipa-1-5-14-24 Hookipa-1-5-14-4

Think this was the only other person that caught a solid Left the whole time I was out.

Hookipa-1-5-14-27


Fun Day @ the Bay

I never claimed to be a local in Hawaii, even though I call this place home. I realize there are just some places in this world where I always be a Haole. I surf with respect and humility and try to remain thankful for any waves I get to enjoy. Honolua Bay is one of those magical places that I’m happy just to be at and if a catch a few waves, even better.  January 5th, I was more then happy just to take pictures because there was so much talent I was able to get front row to all the action, Even got to body surf a few waves that the crowd missed.

I saw this guy pumping just staring at me all the way down the line, I was really really happy he didn’t smash his board into my face, that last second before he caught air, I wasn’t sure about anything. Man what a rush…

honolua 1-5-14-18 honolua 1-5-14-19 honolua 1-5-14-20 honolua 1-5-14-21honolua 1-5-14-22

This guy is always sitting deeper and shallower then anyone else, which translate into him catching speeding closeout where he can just keep throwing airs. Which is totally crazy because it’s only in 3 feet of water with exposed reef in all directions.

honolua 1-5-14-15 honolua 1-5-14-16 honolua 1-5-14-17

The barrel sections were a little sketchy but if you were willing to stall you could get deep… Not sure if you’d make the next section but who cares, some one would drop in on you either way lol

honolua 1-5-14-5 honolua 1-5-14-23

honolua 1-5-14-14

This is the off the lip section of this post !!!

honolua 1-5-14-13 honolua 1-5-14-9 honolua 1-5-14-10 honolua 1-5-14-11

honolua 1-5-14-7 honolua 1-5-14-6 honolua 1-5-14-4 honolua 1-5-14-3 honolua 1-5-14-2

Looks fun but point breaks are always like swimming a marathon thru white water. Just keep swimming, just keep swimming!!!

honolua 1-5-14-1 honolua 1-5-14-24


Drop Everything

There will come a time in every young surfers life when he has to start missing Swells for work, birthdays parties or hangovers. But there are days (especially during a wave drought) were you have to “just get to the beach”, this Sunday was one of these days, not the cleanest but the biggest we have seen in some time. I’m not going to name this spot (please don’t post locations) but it was prime for this crazy cross island swell. The people informed were ripping and everyone that stumbled across it were struggling to keep up (myself included).

I’m the not biggest fan of empty wave shots, they lack perspective and are sometimes UN-rideable but these perfectly illustrate the intensity of this swell. *none of these are fisheye shot, I was using a 17-55mm, what you see it what I was dodging all day Sunday.

10-13-1

10-13-2

This one is blurry but the size of this pit needed to be shared.

10-13-12

10-13-4 10-13-5 10-13-6 10-13-7

10-13-9 10-13-10 10-13-8

Best Turn of the Day. He had crazy speed going into it

10-13-15 10-13-16 10-13-17


Winter is Coming

The cold water has arrived and with it has come some serious waves. This is the time of year in NY when all the kiddies that thought it was “so radical” to take up surfing for the summer go away and the cream of the crop rises to the top. When you realize that this isn’t just a warm water hobby but a serious addiction that is only satisfied by the cold heavy hand of mother natures raw force.

Let the fun start

10-11-13-RM-1410-11-13-RM-15

Wished he made this massive air drop but you have to have a serious pair to try

10-11-13-RM-16 10-11-13-RM-17

It was so hard to stay in position, Would have love to be able to shoot fisheye in the pit but when your swimming against a raging current my 17-55mm lens is money.

10-11-13-RM-9

10-11-13-RM-10

A lot of surfers where out, but you could quickly tell the one’s treading water and the one’s charging

10-11-13-RM-6 10-11-13-RM-3

10-11-13-RM-410-11-13-RM-810-11-13-RM

Days like this I don’t even mind that they are devoid of color, waves like these aren’t pretty, deal with it.


Doom and Gloom

The days of warm water and pretty sunsets are gone, bring on the nasty funky Fall power. It was grey today, the ocean, the sky and the people but who cares? There were waves and that’s all that matters. I’m going back down to the beach in a few hours so I will save a verbose blog post and rely on photogenic magic.

Representing Long Beach, NY @ Lincoln Blvd

Here’s Drew, the best photo of the day because he has enough Balls to get down to the beach before sunrise and kill it in the dark, where were you? Sleeping, that’s why Drew Rocks!

10-10-13

Didn’t matter if you were shooting towards the sun or away it was all muted greys

10-10-13-8

10-10-13-7 10-10-13-6

Here’s Drew’s Buddy, he rocks too but he fell on this wave and it made me laugh, sorry drew’s buddy, email me and I will give you all your photos for free.

10-10-13-5

Here’s Drew dropping in on his buddy, but it’s totally ok because my business card is in his mouth and he held on to it. So sorry Drew’s Buddy you got dogged twice today. That also makes me laugh, sorry just being honest.

10-10-13-33

Here’s a guy named Dan, That’s my name too. “Rock on” Dan’s of the world

10-10-13-10

Yeah we are happy to be in weather like this if it means we get waves.

10-10-13-14 10-10-13-15

I didn’t get the memo, it’s bootie season now, 3 hours of shooting, I could barely feel my feet,  please dress according from now on, but if you wear Gloves until I say it’s cool, you are a kook and I will make fun of you too, that go for removable hoods also, grow a pair it NY

10-10-13-18


Before Dawn Patrol

AND THE LIGHT SHALL SHOW YOU THE WAY!!! Got together with my buddy Neal before work on Monday 9/30 in Long Beach, NY. If you not up on current events, the North Atlantic is currently in the middle of the weakest Hurricane season in the last 100 years (maybe I’m being a little dramatic).  We are waved starved and will hump an glimpse of swell we get. In effort to squeeze a couple of more rides out of the swell, we got to the beach around 5:30am, a solid 45minutes before first light and an hour before sunrise. Easy enough for Neal he’s just got to ride the wave, I have to focus on a moving target in the dark while bobbing up and down trying to get a usable image. The only way I can get a usable image in “no light” is with a flash, luckily I have a waterproof flash housing to go along with my Camera.

I didn’t get too many usable photos when it was pitch dark, but this one some how was crisp as day light. You can tell by the blur of the light in the back ground that there was more then a little movement going on. Aperture 40, F-Stop 2.8, Flash 1/8  ISO 500

9-30-Lincoln-NY

You can tell by the difference in light from the first photo that I must have spent 15-20 minutes without getting another usable photos and this one is a little shaky

9-30-Lincoln-NY-3

I was getting great color shooting into the sun but positioning myself close enough for the flash to be affective was a little tricky

9-30-Lincoln-NY-5

9-30-Lincoln-NY-6

I have to give credit where it’s due, imagine get flashed at 8fps (frames per second) in the dark and keeping your cool to pull off style like this

9-30-Lincoln-NY-8 9-30-Lincoln-NY-10 9-30-Lincoln-NY-11 9-30-Lincoln-NY-12 9-30-Lincoln-NY-13

9-30-Lincoln-NY-16 9-30-Lincoln-NY-18

It stunk that we had to go to work so early but you do what you have to get waves.


Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.

Join 2,176 other followers