Woke up early this morning, looked out my front door to see clear skies and I was on my way to the beach. As the sun creeps over the Koʻolau’s it puts a nice sheen on the surface of the wave, makes it look almost metallic BUT I didn’t get any quality of shot of the pristine surface conditions before the winds changed and the surfers ripped it up. So I got some AIRS, Damien Hobgood was out punting as well as a bunch of local stand outs. I know less talk more pictures
Here is something you never see a board with no LOGO, all most makes you forget you are in Disney world, almost…
And little trade secret I’ll share with my kids out there in web land. The “Snow Effect”, I haven’t perfected it myself YET, but you use your body to stop the lip behind you (helps if you spread your free arm) and the wave hitting your body opens up at least another frame of action and give you that little spray of SNOW, this one is for all of you people that aren’t in 75 degree weather Mahalo
Ok one more cause this made me laugh, kid tried a quick side flip, no chance of landing it cause your momentum is concentrated in the wrong direction, but it’s not going to stop them from trying
I’ve felt a mile away shooting at the VANS World Cup of surfing, big waves, shifting breaks and the fear I would get in someones way during a scoring wave has keep me on the shoulder. If I wanted to use a long range lens I’d shoot from the beach. You know me, I love to be in the action. Went off at Rocky Point today and was getting a little too close for comfort. All in good fun right haha.
Could have cropped this picture and zoomed but I love the clouds, so the picture stand and he floats
For the second half of my session I was focused on getting underwater shots, still need to pratice and maybe go out with friends cause not everyone was happy with me getting so close hahahaha.
haha this guys face says it all, it’s all in good fun, check back later for more pics. Love YA
Carissa Moore is allowed to compete in the Triple Crown Of Surfing (all male event) because she is the 2011 Women’s World Champion of Surfing, there is no Hawaiian event for women and she is Hawaiian. So they made an exception so she could showcase her talent in her home state. That being said unfortunately she did not make her heat today and was eliminated from the VANS World Cup Of Surfing.
Pancho Sullivan was her caddy (some one that holds a spare board for you in the line up) how cool is that
Sunny Garcia was in the same Heat as Carissa and he found the waves he needed to advance to the next round. He is a magician at Sunset, he didn’t even look like he was making an effort to catch waves, they just came to him.
And Dane Reynolds is just a style master, the kid has got flow!
Honestly I was just happy the sun came out today and it seemed like all my pictures from the last few day were all grey. I think tomorrow, regardless of Competition I’m going to go out and shoot some art shots. You know change it up a little, I still got at least 3 days left of competition. I just like being able to get a little closer and interact with the surfers. It’s more fun. I guess thats how some guys feel about contest, Surfing is supposed to be fun, contest feel like work (even though I’m super excited to be in the lineup hehe)
Got up and out early to catch the first 4 heats of todays round of 96 @ THE VANS TRIPLE CROWN OF SURFING. The swell has drop since yesterday so it was no problem swimming in and out to the break. Kind of an over cast morning and that makes for dull photos but it was all good, I was more then happy to catch the action.
Check out how much the wind is throwing the spray. VINCENT DUVIGNAC on a frothy one
I like this one of Heath Joske cause it actually looks like he could make this wave, he kick in a second later, I guess I just like the perception of photos.
Getting ready to go out again in a few minutes for heat 14 Sunny Garcia, Carissa Moore and Heat 15 cause I’ve never actually personally seen Dane Reynolds.
Keanu Asing was ripping out there and I was lucky enough to get front row action. Unfortunately I was too far out side to catch his barrel and the highest scored wave of the event but I got the take off and his second wave score. Good luck tomorrow Keanu…
Check out the video of the wave of the day
So today was the first day of competition for the VANS World Cup, the second stop on the Triple Crown of Surfing, Held at Sunset Beach. The waves were a little choppy due to heavy winds but it was a solid 8-12 foot swell. I was granted access to shoot in the water during the comp, an honor I took with a lot of humility. I take what I do very seriously and am truly grateful for this opportunity. Enjoy the pictures and Mahalo for visiting my blog.
Joan Duru from France getting pitted!!!
Sean Moody advancing on to the next round
When I got this picture of Gony Zubizarreta I realized I was way too close to the competitors, I have to stay in the channel away from the surfers, If I messed up a wave I would not only be ostracized by the surfing community but I probably get kicked out of Hawaii
An it was my honor to watch Sunny Garcia out at Sunset from the line up, a memory I will not soon forget.
If your interested in seeing how big it was today, check out this video. I went swimming in this!
Every time I take the 15 minute swim out to Sunset Beach Break, I always have a great time. It’s about 200 yards from the beach and when the current is strong it is not an easy swim out. Lets not forget to mention BoneYards and why it’s called that. The easiest way to paddle out is over boneyards (nick named this because of the dry exposed reef right next to the break) but it’s not the safest. I guess people just realize the skill it takes to get out there and they totally respect it. Ok lets stop talking about me and just see some pictures hehe.
Empty Barrels into boneyard, no one was brave enough to take them, I really wanted to swim in and get my board but it would be dark by the time I got in
I think I’m in love with the world under the world.
This is Bruno, he was so stoked to be out there, I can’t help but smile when I look at his face. He came over introduced him self and was wondering what i was doing out there, I gave him the website name, I really hope he checks it out and smiles too when he sees his face.
You can see the contest site in the background, I got permission to shoot during the contest so I’m totally stoked, I hope it gets BIGGGGGGG. and I get a front row seat to watch some of the best surfers in the world tear up sunset
Not really my forte but, I seem to get a lot of positive feedback from the last time I tried to get those classic beach break barrel shots. I guess it translate better to mainstream appeal then regular surf photography. I like it but its over edited and plastic to me. It’s funny after trying this a few times I realize all the techniques Clark uses in his own photography. Not to say they are any type of trade secret just very simple editing software touch ups.
Lets face it, Taj was on fire the whole event, it’s been a few days but I though I’d add this little barrel Taj got in the Reef Pro.
Ok so the other day Flynn Novak did a back flip at rocky point, It made Surfline’s Punt of the Month and apparently it was a big deal cause I heard about it at Thanksgiving dinner last night. I got the sequence of him doing it but it was a little over exposed so I didn’t even think about posting it but since it’s “News” on the shore, I might as well show you what I got. Enjoy
Hope everyone is with O’hona or Hanai this year and getting some good food. I got invited to diner and I’m really digging the Aloha today. Here are some clips from yesterdays Reef Pro and some barrels I got this morning at Rocky’s left (almost like backdoor Pipe).
This might be the only sequence I ever get to see Rob Machado in a contest jersey
NOW THE BARRELS, from this morning
And an empty one for you, where were you, did you miss it, o wait your eating turkey, well stop it, there are enough barrels for you too.
HAHA not trying to be the first to tell you that Taj won the Reef Pro, the first stop on the Triple Crown. Not even trying to get the up close and personal podium shot of him drinking a Fosters (Wait a second, never mind no more beer on the podium). I’m here to give you the only water angles (in the world) of Taj winning rides. Just some exclusive content from The Surfing Photog.
Taj’s royal chariot
Taj 9 point ride and back up score. (I love the fact he had the competition combo for 15 minutes of the heat)
His victory ride in and carry up the beach
Went over to the Reef Pro today to watch the second day of competition. There were a few set rolling in but with only 20 minute heat times it was a battle of strategy. Most of the guys that won today got a solid wave off the buzzer followed it up with a small score and then played defense for the last 10 minutes. No shame in the game but it doesn’t lead to the best surfing for the spectators. John John was nailing airs and representing HI to the fullest.
I don’t care to say hello to a single surfer but Paul Fisher is a different story. Thanks for taking two seconds off your phone , Good on ya FOLLOW THE FISH (BEST WEBSITE EVER)
I got home around 3 to stay out for a setting sun session. Trying to get those back lit barrels. Danny Fuller and Roy Powers were holding it down today at Rocky’s and it was a great sunset. Can’t wait for tomorrow’s adventure.
This is what happens if you drop in on the wrong guy
and some failing light shots and back lit barrels
Totally could have sat at Hale’iwa Alii Beach Park and watched the first day of the Reef Pro in 2 foot surf but instead I hit the beach with my camera and some New York Transplants (Got to represent my roots). We hit up Rocky lefts/Gas chamber, the East facing swell is blending the two breaks and really shifting the peaks. Nothing huge but definitely a bunch of head high sets.
I’ve been posting a lot of sequences but today I had the pleasure of following a local Lifeguard and I got a bunch of shots. Enjoy
And some Taylor Knox action just because he’s Taylor Knox
So this morning I ran to Turtle Bay resort from my house at Rocky’s, It’s my morning loop (5 miles each way). But today instead of just filling up my water bottle and looking buff at the pool, I went over to the “Da Hui’s 7th Annual Beach Clean Up” spent two hours helping our ocean by picking up trash. I got there a little late but I managed to fill two garbage bags between Turtle Bay and Kawela Bay. After the clean up they had a ‘Ono BBQ and concert. A lot of Aloha and great people.
Tonight the swell is starting to fill in so I went out to shoot between Sunset and Rocky’s (Monster Mush) and who else but part of the Da Hui crew was out ripping it up. Makua Rothman was shredding and totally owning the break. Got a few great shots and felt the Aloha all over again.
Just want to give a Big ALOHA back to the Da Hui and all the great things they do for the North Shore.
If you don’t know who Clark Little is click here , Most likely you have seen his work and didn’t even know the artist. He is a North Shore local that has made a name for himself by capturing stunning images of the ocean. He’s known for getting close up shots of shore break at some of the gnarlyist waves in Hawaii and some of the most peaceful moments the ocean has to offer.
If you don’t know the waves have been less then spectacular the last few weeks on the North Shore, so it has lead me to channel my more creative outlets (you can only run and work out for so long). So I hit the beach for a swim and when I got in I thru my self into some shore chop to see how hard it was to capture the moment. Clark Little Style. Out of 600 shots this is the best I got, conclusion not easy
So I took a swim out to Sunset Beach to practice and stay in loose. It’s been small for the last few days and I thought I could go for a survival swim (with my camera of course) out past the break and across to Rocky Point. I get out there and there are some long boarders riding a bowl section and pulling off some classic nose rides. Mostly older guys but a few visitors from Maui and a few locals. Very relaxed fun session. So Randy Rarick paddles into a pealing right and I go right under his board. He was so perplexed why? He came over and said “you didn’t have to dive deep under me” (basically saying he was never going to run me over). So I told him it’s a small day and I’m practicing underwater shots of surfers, I said I was looking to get a shot of your fin as it cuts thru the water. I guessed this impressed him because he wanted to know both my First and Last name and if I had a website.
Even small days can be epic!!!
All I have to say is STYLE
A Waterproof Long Exposure !!!!! I’ve been thinking of this concept a lot, low to no light long exposure from inside the ocean. This was a practice run but it turned out awesome. For all you photo dorks out there, not having access to my ISO, WB and focal length while on location (due to limited controls on my water housing) makes this process harder and involves a lot more conceptualization before the shoot but man is it fun. O yeah try to steady a tripod in Hawaiian beach break, FYI not easy.
I’ve talked about the balance between Sports Photography and ART. Surfing is an artistic pursuit and not just a “Sport”. It’s the reason why I love it so much. Take for instance “Year Zero”the 16 mm is awesome, Director Joe G. and Cinematographer Scott Soens make it happen. It’s the reason why I shoot into the sun, the reason why I stay out past dark. In an industry where logo’s as much as surfers sell photos, It’s refreshing that maybe there are some artistic pursuits still out there
4000 steps up the Koolaus Mountain range on the East Side of Oahu about the Haiku Valley. This hike was closed to the public in 1987 despise being renovated in 2003. To access the trail you have to hop two fences, two thick bamboo forests and arrive before 3 am to avoid the security guard that sits at the entrance to the stairs. BUT IT WAS EPIC!!!! Not a hike for the non-athletic, the climb takes about 2 hours due to the careful foot placement.
AT THE TOP, the old satellite and communication towers
When the pro’s stay out after dark, there is no reason to go in because they do every thing above the lip.
As the swell decreases and as the end of glorious 3 day weekend (haha people that actually have real jobs) it was a longboard kind of day. Get out the big stick, da boat, the loooong plank… Lets pack the minivan go to the North Shore and lather on the sunscreen. But seriously there where some rippers and even some good nose ridding, a skill that seems to be lost on the youth. So next time it’s mushy and onshore, dust off your old woody and ride with some style.
The Triple Crown Of Surfing started yesterday, no waves today but all the tourist were flocking the contest site. (wait a second am I a tourist, never mind that) Any woo no waves today looking like late in the week for day one to start. I’ll be there checking it out have a blast when it does. See ya on the Island….